Winter Climbing Statement, Updated December 27th, 2008

The best time to climb Mt. Shasta is generally from May to July or August.  In addition, the days are longer and the weather is generally better.  winter climbs are best for experienced climbers and are more difficult and dangerous due to weather and avalanches.  the routes on the north and east sides are not recommended for un-guided novices: glacier travel and route finding skills are prerequisites.  Winter brings cold nighttime temperatures and the chance of storms with snow levels below the trail head.  ALWAYS, check the weather forecast before you ski or climb.  Weather and avalanche conditions limit search and rescue safety.  Do not expect to be rescued.  Rather, prevent rescues from happening in the first place, and be prepared to handle rescues within your own climbing party should something happen.

The only trail head currently open is Bunny Flat on the south side of Mt. Shasta at 7000 ft.  The road to bunny Flat is plowed throughout the winter, but does close for several days at a time during heavy snowfall (people have become trapped on the mountain or at Bunny flat for days - be prepared!)  Although the other trail heads are closed, you are welcome to access the mountain through those areas.  Don't expect the roads to these trail heads to be plowed; long approaches in winter of 4-19 miles can be expected - Got Snowmobile?  Please come by the station to pick up your summit pass, wilderness permit and pack-out bags if you plan on going anywhere besides Bunny Flat.

The current conditions are like typical winter climbs and are much more demanding than during the summer.  Expect strong winds above tree line and low visibility is common.  winter climbers should have some avalanche training and avoid typical avalanche areas like "Avalanche Gulch".  Always check the weather forecast and avalanche advisory before climbing and monitor the weather while climbing.  Climbers on Mt. Shasta have been killed in avalanches.  The more challenging ridge routes, Casaval and Green Butte/Sargents, are usually the choice of winter climbers to help lessen their avalanche exposure.  These areas can still be dangerous though, and are sometimes the starting zones for avalanches.  On the glacier routes, most of the crevasses will have snow bridges of varying thickness and strength (we recommend experienced glacier climbers only).

Because high winds are more frequent in winter months, it is often best to camp at or below tree line.   Many tents have been destroyed or blown away and some climbers have had frostbite on their hands, feet and face from cold, wind-Chill temperatures.  You will usually need either skis or snowshoes to approach your route and expect to post-hole while climbing.  Because you will be camping lower and climbing more slowly through the snow, leave yourself more time to climb.  Get an alpine start (2-3 am) and have an early turn around time as the days are short.  Expect cold temperatures this time of year with wind chill on the summit often reaching well below zero (for example, 12/14/08, the wind chill on the summit was -46F).  Proper equipment, clothing and training are a must.  We recommend that you do not climb into deteriorating weather as many climbers have become lost, injured or died in poor weather.  Nature sets its' own terms and YOU must judge how much risk you are willing to accept.

Current Conditions (12/27/08)

4 to 6 feet of snow can be expected above tree line with ridge tops scoured to the rock.  We currently have poor climbing conditions with high winds, low visibility and avalanche danger, especially on SE and E aspects due to wind loading.  Swirling winds on the upper mountain are common and can load many aspects, so be observant, carry and use the back country essentials (transceiver, shovel, probe) and be prepared to hunker down with an avalanche safe escape route.  Avalanche training is recommended.  We also had a climbing fatality on 11/28/08 when a climber fell and was unable to self arrest, falling/sliding over 1000 ft.  Around 2 feet of snow will be found at the Bunny Flat trail head and powdery conditions will slow your climb.  No running water is available so bring plenty of fuel to melt snow.  Unstable weather will continue for the next week.

If any of this information is new to you, either wait until summer or contact one of the 3 permitted outfitters on Mt. Shasta (Alpine Skills International, Shasta Mountain Guides, Sierra Wilderness Seminars).

If you would like more information, feel free to come by the Mt. Shasta Ranger Station for slide shows, pictures, or to speak with a ranger and/or front desk personnel.

Tips: Climb early and descend early! This limits exposure to inclement weather and allows plenty of time to descend before dark with the shorter days of fall. Avalanche training along with a transceiver, shovel and probe are recommended! Get an alpine start (2-6am) and have an early turn around time around 12 pm.  Proper equipment, clothing and training are a must.  Helmets are recommended and expect rock fall at all times. Mt. Shasta is a 14,000 ft. lightning rod and is frequently hit by lightning, so don’t push your luck with building thunderheads. Do not expect to be rescued.  Rather, prevent rescues from happening in the first place, and be prepared to handle rescues within your own climbing party should something happen. Nature sets its' own terms and YOU must judge how much risk you are willing to accept. Extra warm gear, like a balaclava, is a good idea as climbers often develop superficial frost bite during strong winds. The wind chill temperature near the summit this time of year can be well below zero.

Best time to climb: The best time to climb Mt. Shasta is generally from late May to mid July on the SW side of the mountain when summer days are longer and the weather is generally stable.  However, this year (2008), the thin snow pack has made the best climbing conditions in April, May and early June. When the snow melts away, you are left with 7000 feet of scree, talus and boulders. There is NO trail to the summit. Climbing is much more fun on consolidated snow!  The routes on the north and east sides are not recommended for un-guided novices; glacier travel and route finding skills are prerequisites.  Spring and summer can bring the chance of thunderstorms. 

THE TEN ESSENTIALS- Keep you and your party out of search and rescue statistics by using common sense and carrying the following: map, compass, sunglasses/sunscreen, extra food and water, extra clothing, headlamp/flashlight, first aid kit, matches/lighter, stove, knife and a bivy sack.
If you choose to climb: Solo climbing is not recommended!  Traveling with an experienced group is a good idea, and remember do not split up the group!  Wear a helmet, use common sense and carry the ten essentials.  The mountain has extreme weather changes.  Therefore, it is a good idea to set-up a turn around time for you and your party.  Most people find that noon is a good time to turn around to allow plenty of time to descend.  So, climb early and descend early!  If you see clouds forming, turn around before there is a whiteout or lightning! Climbers should keep an eye to the sky and constantly monitor the weather around them; additionally it is a must to avoid upper slopes and ridges during any sort of storm activity, due to electrical storms and extreme weather!  Climbers should always be prepared for very cold temperatures; this includes bringing adequate layers of clothing and the ten essentials. 
Leave No Trace:
Please keep the mountain clean! Mt. Shasta’s alpine environment is very fragile.  Be responsible in packing out all the garbage and waste that you packed in with you and your party.  Make sure you pack out all the little micro trash such as; wrappers, extra food particles, buried anchors for tents, parachute chord, matches, cigarettes and any other trash. PLEASE DO NOT BURY FECAL MATTER OR EXTRA FOOD. This will just make the critters and humans sick!  Make sure you urinate away and down hill from bivy sites and at least 200’ from water sources.  The Human Waste Pack-out Bags, are available at the Mt. Shasta Ranger Station, The Fifth Season or at the Bunny Flat trail head.
We appreciate you helping us take care of your Mt. Shasta Wilderness!
*In the last 5 years, we have collected over 11 tons of human body waste that climbers have carried off The Mountain and down to trail heads.  We appreciate your participation! *Climb and descend safely!!
"The beauty of wild places frequently becomes their undoing as they attract visitors - leaving the landscape touched by human hands and eventually less than wild...
As mountaineers traveling in the wilderness, our minimum charge for this privilege is to leave the hills as we found them, with no sign of our passing.  We must study the places we visit and become sensitive to their vulnerability, then camp and climb in ways that minimize our impact."-Mountaineering, The Freedom of the Hills, 6th edition, Mountaineers Press, 1997