Advisories Archived Advisories
| USDA Forest Service Climbing Advisory for Mt. Shasta (Archived-06-23-09 15:21:08) |
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USFS Climbing Advisory Updated by the Climbing Rangers June 22nd, 2009 Please check the weather forecast before you climb. Current Conditions: Climbing conditions are great right now on all aspects of the mountain, given a breath of new life by frequent snow fall at elevations above 10,000 ft. over the course of the month. However, much of usuall hazards exist, ie. rock fall, weak snow bridges over crevasses, etc. Expect some rock and ice fall on the upper portions of the mountain as temperatures warm during the day. You should wear a helmet, and always keep an eye to the slopes above. CLIMB EARLY and avoid sun warmed slopes during the warmest parts of the day. All trailheads around the mountain are now open. Wilderness Permits, Summit Passes, and Pack Out Bags are available at all trail head facilities. Most of the south side routes are in good shape right now, however all of the ridge routes have sections with little to no snow coverage. Weather for this week will return to summer like conditions as a ridge of high pressure builds over the region bringing higher temperatures and light winds. Expect daytime highs at trailhead elevations (7000 ft.) to be in the mid to upper 70's with light east winds. Be prepared! The spring is running at Horse Camp, however, bring plenty of fuel to melt snow as there is no running water elsewhere on the mountain. We recommend that you do not climb into deteriorating weather as many climbers have become lost, injured or died in poor weather. Check the NWS forecast for the latest. Always check the weather forecast before climbing and monitor the conditions as you climb.
The chutes in the Red Banks, climber's right of heart on 5/24/09. Route Info: Avalanche Gulch – John Muir Route (Regular Route) via Bunny Flat Trailhead: This route is in good shape right now. Rock fall is ever present and you should always be observant as sun warms the slopes and partially ice covered cliffs above. Climbing conditions on the headwall portion of the route have settled into typical early summer conditions consisting of firm snow in the early hours making for great climbing. The new snow has increased the options for getting through the Red Banks (RB). Right of the Heart, one can climb up & through RB using either the left, middle or right snow filled gulleys. Traversing up and toward the thumb accessing the notch in the ridge top proper is also a safe alternative. Great care should be taken if circling around the ridge crossing the top of the Konwokiton Glacier where snow bridges covering the moat are thin, and the gap is widening as the surface of the glacier sinks. We DO NOT recommend glissading through the RB. Down climb through the RB, then if you decide to glissade, make sure the snow is soft. DO NOT wear crampons glissading, or injuries will be likely. Take a class, and/or practice your self arrest with an ice axe. In the morning hours before the snow softens, the headwall is quite firm and smooth in spots, making for difficult conditions to self arrest. Self arrest must be immediate if one falls! The summer trail to Horse Camp is completely dirt until the last 1/8 mile. The water is running at Horse Camp, the toilets are open, and a caretaker is on duty. Carry the Ten Essentials. Learn more about mountaineering skills by reading Freedom of the Hills (published by The Mountaineers) and practicing before your climb, or TAKE A SNOW SCHOOL CLASS. Three outfitter-guiding services offer classes and guided trips on Mt. Shasta, and their links are under "Links" or below the photo on this page. Casaval Ridge, Green Butte/Sargents Ridge via Bunny Flat Trailhead: Conditions on Casaval ridge are approaching thier late season state with a few steep talus/scree sections on first half of route forcing the route a bit below the ridge proper. The Catwalk at 12,600 is mostly rock. One very narrow section is composed of water ice and rock so some people are traversing to the left and finishing on the last bit of the West Face route. This option aviods The Catwalk completely. Green Butte/Sargents ridge is in poor shape on the upper half of the route due to lack of ice/snow on the rock spine above 11,600. This pushes the route onto the steep west slope with some route finding through the rock bands is neccessary. Be careful not to dislodge rocks, sending them down onto the Avalanche Gulch climbers below you! Sargents is MUCH better when the ridge is well coated with snow and ice and the route can stay on the ridge proper. Best to wait until next season for this route.
Climbers at the crux of the Catwalk on Casaval Ridge, 5/15/09. photo courtesy Bill McConchie Cascade Gulch, Shastina and West Face via Bunny Flat Trailhead: Although many books list the Cascade route as easy, it also has a lot of exposure where it crosses the upper Whitney glacier, even when minimized to ¼ mile. Glacier travel training is recommended. Shastina is in OK shape - "The Lightening Bolt" couloir option exist for skiiers and boarders. Near the top of the Shastina summit cone is mostly rock however. The West Face is in good condition for climbing and skiing. The traverse from Horse Camp accross the lower portions of Casaval Ridge enroute to Hidden Valley is mostly rock with some snow patches as one climbs above Giddy Giddy and Anaconda Gulches. Always be prepared for wind when camping in Hidden Valley as it can become a wind tunnel during N/NW winds. No water is flowing at this time. Sand Flat Trailhead: Open. Wilderness permits & Summit passes available. Ski Bowl Trailhead: Closed due to snow (3 feet), 2 miles out. The routes on the north and east sides are not for novices! Watch for weak snow bridges over the crevasses, especially on warm days! Some of these trailheads are all closed and buried in snow, so add extra time to your climb. Come by the Ranger Station for the latest information and permits, passes and pack-out bags. Northgate Trailhead: Open. Little to no snow on trail until around 8500 ft. Most of the crevasses and schrunds are bridged on portions of the Hotlum and Whitney glaciers, but this is the season when they get thin and break, especially on the lower portions of the glaciers. A climber broke through a snow bridge and fell into a crevasse on the Whitney glacier two weeks ago! Most routes accessible from this trailhead are in good shape. Running water may be found on warm days in some exposed areas, but don't count on it. Brewer Creek Trailhead: Open. One can drive all the way to the trailhead now. Most of the routes from this trailhead are in good shape. Good skiing conditions can be found on the Hotlum/Wintun route. Watch for weak snowbridges on all glacier routes from this trailhead, especially on the lower portions of the glaciers. No exposed running water - be prepared to melt snow. People often get lost finding their way back to their vehicles, so carry a map and compass and pay attention! Clear Creek Trailhead: Open. Clear Creek and Wintun Ridge routes are in good shape. Skiing is very limited. Water is hard to find at the main high camp - be prepared to melt snow.  An injured climber was evacuated 6/7/09 in Avalanche Gulch at 11,400 ft. He suffered from an open tib/fib fracture. photo by Chris Carr If any of this information is new to you, consider contacting one of the 3 permitted outfitters on Mt. Shasta (Alpine Skills International, Shasta Mountain Guides, Sierra Wilderness Seminars). If you would like more information, feel free to come by the Mt. Shasta Ranger Station for slide shows, pictures, or to speak with a ranger and/or our very helpful front desk personnel. Tips: Climb early and descend early! This limits exposure to inclement weather and allows plenty of time to descend before dark. Avalanche training along with a transceiver, shovel and probe are recommended in winter and spring! Get an alpine start (2-6am) and have an early turn around time around 12 to 1 pm. Proper equipment, clothing and training are a must. Helmets are recommended and expect rock or ice fall at all times. Mt. Shasta is a 14,000 ft. lightning rod and is frequently hit by lightning, so don’t push your luck with building thunderheads. Do not expect to be rescued. Rather, prevent rescues from happening in the first place, and be prepared to handle rescues within your own climbing party should something happen. Nature sets its' own terms and YOU must judge how much risk you are willing to accept. Extra warm gear, like a balaclava, is a good idea in winter and spring as climbers often develop superficial frost bite during strong winds. The wind chill temperature near the summit in winter and spring can be well below zero. Best time to climb: The best time to climb Mt. Shasta is generally from late May to mid July on the SW side of the mountain when summer days are longer and the weather is generally stable. However, in dry years (2007/2008), the thin snow pack creates the best climbing conditions in April, May and early June. When the snow melts away, you are left with 7000 feet of scree, talus and boulders. There is NO trail to the summit. Climbing is much more fun on consolidated snow! The routes on the north and east sides are not recommended for un-guided novices; glacier travel and route finding skills are prerequisites. Spring and summer can bring the chance of thunderstorms. THE TEN ESSENTIALS- Keep you and your party out of search and rescue statistics by using common sense and carrying the following: map, compass, sunglasses/sunscreen, extra food and water, extra clothing, headlamp/flashlight, first aid kit, matches/lighter, stove, knife and a bivy sack. |
