Advisories Archived Advisories
| USDA Forest Service Climbing Advisory for Mt. Shasta (Archived-11-02-09 13:18:58) |
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USFS Mt. Shasta Climbing Advisory - FALL STATEMENT 2009 CLIMBERS! YOU WILL NEED THE FOLLOWING:♦Wilderness Permit, Summit Pass, and Human Waste Pack-out Bags: you can get all of these for self issue at all the trailheads or at the Mt. Shasta Ranger Station 24/7. The Mt. Shasta Ranger Station is open Monday through Friday from 8-4:30pm. Annual summit passes for $30 (good Jan. 1 – Dec. 31) are available at the Mt. Shasta and McCloud Ranger Stations during business hours and at the Fifth Season in Mt. Shasta and REI Sacramento. Regular summit passes (3-days, $20) are available by self issue at open trailheads, Mt. Shasta Ranger station 24/7, and during business hours at the Fifth Season, Shasta Base Camp or at various REI stores in the Bay Area and Sacramento. Reservations are not required. ♦Check Current weather forecast. ♦WARM clothing – NO COTTON - carry the ten essentials! ♦Overcoming summit fever and knowing when to turn around. Please check the weather forecast before you climb. Special Note on Fall Climbing: A climber fell while ascending on the night of 10/31 and tumbled 1200 vertical feet. He had multiple injuries and was helicoptered off the mountain and flown to a hospital in Redding on 11/1. The current conditions are more hazardous than the typical conditions during early summer climbs. We currently have 1-3 feet of hard snow on the mountain above 9000 ft. This leaves numerous rocks protruding through the snow. With smooth and firm snow, if you fall and are unable to self arrest immediately, you will pick up speed rapidly and most likely impact rocks, resulting in serious to fatal injuries. We had a fatality in November, 2008 under similar conditions. The current climbing conditions are best for experienced mountaineers. Always wear a helmet and use an ice axe and crampons. Self arrest should be second nature. Also, we are observing a lot of rock fall as the sun warms slopes, so use caution and minimize your exposure. Check the weather forecast before your climb, monitor the weather during your climb and be prepared for strong winds, cold temperatures and low visibility as weather changes rapidly this time of year. FALL STATEMENT 2009:
All routes were in very poor condition before the large Columbus Day storm where 3.5 to 4 feet of snow fell on the upper mountain and 1-2 feet accumulated at the trailheads. Winds hit 56 mph from the SW at treeline and much stronger higher up. Bunny Flat is the only trailhead open - all others have been closed for the winter. If you plan to travel to other sections of the mountain, please plan on extra time due to miles of snow covered roads and stop by the Ranger Station to pick-up permits, passes and pack-out bags (available 24/7 at Mt. Shasta). Be prepared for winter conditions as high winds and strong storms can occur in October or November. Several years ago we had an avalanche fatality in November when a climbing party was ascending during a large storm. So, your personal library of mountaineering experience should also include avalanche awareness and lower risk route finding. This is NOT a good time for first time mountaineers unless you are with a guide. There are 3 permitted Outfitters on Mt. Shasta: Alpine Skills International, Shasta Mountain Guides, and Sierra Wilderness Seminars. Thin snow on the south side of Mt. Shasta, October 20, 2009. Rock fall will be more likely on sunny days. The Bunny Flat trailhead stays open year round. The road to Bunny Flat is plowed, but not on a regular schedule, and is sometimes closed for several days during storms. All of the other trailheads on Mt. Shasta will be closed in the fall and are buried in snow during the winter and spring. You are still welcome to access the Mt. Shasta Wilderness from any of the trailheads, but come by the Mt. Shasta or McCloud Ranger Stations for permits and information, and be prepared for long approaches over unplowed, snow covered roads (4-16 miles).
ALWAYS check the weather before you hike or climb. Have a safe and enjoyable fall season. NOTE: We will not be updating the route conditions for the rest of the year. Feel free to call us for any questions if you choose to climb any of the routes on the mountain. -Thanks, The Climbing Rangers If you would like more information, feel free to come by the Mt. Shasta Ranger Station for slide shows, pictures, or to speak with a ranger and/or our very helpful front desk personnel. Tips: Climb early and descend early! This limits exposure to inclement weather and allows plenty of time to descend before dark. Avalanche training along with a transceiver, shovel and probe are recommended in winter and spring! Get an alpine start (2-6am) and have an early turn around time around 12 to 1 pm. Proper equipment, clothing and training are a must. Helmets are recommended and expect rock or ice fall at all times. Mt. Shasta is a 14,000 ft. lightning rod and is frequently hit by lightning, so don’t push your luck with building thunderheads. Do not expect to be rescued. Rather, prevent rescues from happening in the first place, and be prepared to handle rescues within your own climbing party should something happen. Nature sets its' own terms and YOU must judge how much risk you are willing to accept. Extra warm gear, like a balaclava, is a good idea in winter and spring and fall as climbers often develop superficial frost bite during strong winds. The wind chill temperature near the summit in winter and spring can be well below zero. Best time to climb: The best time to climb Mt. Shasta is generally from late May to mid July on the SW side of the mountain when summer days are longer and the weather is generally stable. However, in dry years (2007/2008), the thin snow pack creates the best climbing conditions in April, May and early June. When the snow melts away, you are left with 7000 feet of scree, talus and boulders. In heavy snow years the climbing season extends to August or September. There is NO trail to the summit. Climbing is much more fun on consolidated snow! The routes on the north and east sides are not recommended for un-guided novices; glacier travel and route finding skills are prerequisites. Spring and summer can bring the chance of thunderstorms. THE TEN ESSENTIALS- Keep you and your party out of search and rescue statistics by using common sense and carrying the following: map, compass, sunglasses/sunscreen, extra food and water, extra clothing, headlamp/flashlight, first aid kit, matches/lighter, stove, knife and a bivy sack. |
