Artwork: John Muir and Mt. Shasta, drawing by Dan Towner, 2004

"A climb of Mt. Shasta is a very special experience.  It presents each individual with the unique opportunity to visit the Mt. Shasta Wilderness, part of the National Wilderness Preservation System...We encourage you to enter into the spirit of wilderness and humbly and carefully make your way through this landscape, ever mindful of the special privilege you have to realize yourself as a creature in harmony with wildness, pursuing the challenge and reward of personal growth.  On your journey to the summit, travel lightly and quietly on the land.  Experience the timelessness of rock and ice, the dormant volcanic energy of a sleeping giant, and the indifference of eternity.  Come prepared to climb a major mountain."
-George Duffy, retired Climbing Ranger

USFS Mt. Shasta Climbing Advisory - Updated Monday, June 14th, 2010

CLIMBERS! YOU WILL NEED THE FOLLOWING: 
♦Wilderness Permit, Summit Pass, and Human Waste Pack-out Bags: you can get all of these for self issue at all the trailheads or at the Mt. Shasta Ranger Station 24/7. The Mt. Shasta Ranger Station is open Monday through Saturday from 8-4:30pm.  Annual summit passes for $30 (good Jan. 1 – Dec. 31) are available at the Mt. Shasta and McCloud Ranger Stations during business hours and at the Fifth Season in Mt. Shasta and REI Sacramento. Regular summit passes (3-days, $20) are available by self issue at open trailheads, Mt. Shasta Ranger station 24/7, and during business hours at the Fifth Season, Shasta Base Camp or at various REI stores in the Bay Area and Sacramento.  Reservations are not required. 
  ♦Check Current weather forecast. 
  ♦WARM clothing – NO COTTON - carry the ten essentials! 
  ♦Overcoming summit fever and knowing when to turn around.

Please check the weather forecast before you climb.

Rescues are costly and put SAR teams at risk.  Recognize changing climbing or weather conditions, be prepared to change plans at any time, and be ready to handle injuries or illnesses should they occur.  Siskiyou County SAR, CHP and the USFS have been very busy over the last 2 weeks!

Please check the weather forecast before you climb.

Current Conditions:   You are responsible for yourself and must do everything you can to prevent accidents from occurring.  The Mountain sets its' own terms and you must be prepared to handle the varying levels of risk when climbing and know when it's time to turn around.
Hazards:  We have had a lot of ice fall over the weekend and we still have ice on rocks and cliffs on the upper mountain which we expect will continue peeling off over the next few days.  Numerous climbers were hit with ice chunks from the size of your fist to the size of a beach ball.  Some injuries were severe and recquired emergency evacuation.  This ice fall is especially pronounced in "funnel-like" routes like Avalanche gulch where the terrain focuses falling debris directly onto the route.  The section in Avalanche Gulch from 10,800 ft. to 11,400 ft. is called "the Bowling Alley" for obvious reasons.  This is a significant hazard which we expect to decrease later this week, but, stop by the Ranger Station to get the latest information. Wear A Helmet!

Snow condition:  The snow on most routes is firm and smooth.  This is advantageous for faster travel with crampons on mountaineering boots, BUT, if you fall and are unable to self arrest with your ice axe IMMEDIATELY, it is a "Whistler-like" luge course (Olympic Games reference).  A few climbers slid and tumbled from 12, 700 ft. to 10,800 feet and suffered numerous injuries with some very severe and requiring emergency evacuation over the weekend.  If you do not know how to use an ice axe or crampons, please take a course from one of the three permitted guide outfitters on Mt. Shasta, or other instructors.  If you already know how to use an ice axe, it is still good to practice to keep it fresh.  Our snow pack is above normal (140% in early May) and we are expecting a good climbing season.

Weather:  The weather for the week is looking like a low pressure trough will  be moving through the area Tuesday night through Wednesday bringing higher winds and cooler temps. on the upper portions of the mountain.  Winds will be increasing Tuesday night reaching their maximum on Wednesday with speeds around 45 mph.  There is also the possibility of some clouds building during the daytime this week, so keep an eye to the sky monitoring the weather as you climb.  Avoid climbing into white-out conditions.  Weather is a very serious factor in climbing and should be a significant part of your climbing plans and monitored during your climb.   We recommend that you do NOT climb into deteriorating weather as many climbers have become lost, injured or died in poor weather.  Please check the NWS forecast for the latest.

This photo shows the main routes on the south side of Mt. Shasta with variations drawn with dashed lines.  These variations may be more difficult or easier than the standard route, so please find out before you go!  Routes change as the conditions change.

Route Info:
Avalanche Gulch – John Muir Route (Regular Route) via Bunny Flat Trailhead: This route has great snow coverage for this time of year, and should have a long season.  The snow surface is currently quite smooth and firm without a defined boot pack higher up.  There are a few options right now for passing through the Red Banks   Watch for ice fall over the next few days as the sun warms the rock bands above.  Be aware of ice fall even in the early morning hours as winds can also dislodge ice, so keep your eyes up  slope.  The skiing  is still quite good, however, with routes on the mountain covering 7000 vert. ft. don't expect to get good corn for more than a few thousand ft. of your descent.   The trail is buried, so carry a map/compass and pay attention– people frequently get lost early season returning to Bunny Flat (2 lost 6/14). There is no running water at Horse Camp right now, but they are working on getting the spring flowing soon. Toilets at Horse Camp are OPEN. Elsewhere, packout bags are mandatory for removing all solid human waste. There is a Caretaker on duty at Horsecamp. Carry the Ten Essentials. Learn more about mountaineering skills by reading Freedom of the Hills (published by The Mountaineers) and practicing before your climb, or TAKE A SNOW SCHOOL CLASS. Three outfitter-guiding services offer classes and guided trips on Mt. Shasta, and their links are on our web page under "Links".

 

Lone skier ascending Avalanche Gulch in the Climbers' gully, 8700 ft.  April, 2010.  Photo by Mike Hupp/Dawn Patrol Images.

Horse Camp:
The Horse Camp cabin and the surrounding property are owned and managed by the Sierra Club Foundation.  The composting toilet and spring water are closed during the winter months (closed 11/24/09), but are turned on during spring, summer and fall (toilets opened 5/15/10).  The cabin is open year round and all are welcome!  Make sure you close the door when you leave...

 
ALWAYS check the weather before you hike or climb; monitor the weather on your trip.

Tips: Climb early and descend early! This limits exposure to inclement weather and allows plenty of time to descend before dark. Avalanche training along with a transceiver, shovel and probe are recommended in winter and spring! Get an alpine start (2-5am) and have an early turn around time around 12 to 1 pm.  Proper equipment, clothing and training are a must.  Helmets are recommended and expect rock or ice fall at all times. Mt. Shasta is a 14,000 ft. lightning rod and is frequently hit by lightning (usually in summer and fall months), so don’t push your luck with building thunderheads. Do not expect to be rescued.  Rather, prevent rescues from happening in the first place, and be prepared to handle rescues within your own climbing party should something happen. Nature sets its' own terms and YOU must judge how much risk you are willing to accept. Extra warm gear, like a balaclava, is a good idea in winter, spring and fall as climbers often develop superficial frost bite during strong winds. The wind chill temperature near the summit in winter and spring can be well below zero.  On 5/23/10 the wind chill at Helen Lake was negative 26F.

Best time to climb: The best time to climb Mt. Shasta is generally from late May to mid July on the SW side of the mountain when summer days are longer and the weather is generally stable.  However, in dry years (2007-2009), the thin snow pack creates the best climbing conditions in April, May and early June. When the snow melts away, you are left with 7000 feet of scree, talus and boulders. In heavy snow years the climbing season extends to August or September.  There is NO trail to the summit. Climbing is much more fun on consolidated snow!  The routes on the north and east sides are not recommended for un-guided novices; glacier travel and route finding skills are prerequisites.  Spring, summer and fall can bring the chance of thunderstorms. 

THE TEN ESSENTIALS- Keep yourself and your party out of search and rescue statistics by using common sense and carrying the following: map, compass, sunglasses/sunscreen, extra food and water, extra clothing, headlamp/flashlight, first aid kit, matches/lighter, stove, knife.  A bivy sac is a lightweight survival shelter.
If you choose to climb: Solo climbing is not recommended!  Traveling with an experienced group is a good idea, and remember - do not split up the group!  Wear a helmet, use common sense and carry the ten essentials.  The mountain has extreme weather changes.  Therefore, it is a good idea to set-up a turn around time for your party.

A note on wind...  Mount Shasta stands by itself in the atmoshpere.  There is nothing anywhere near its' height for over a hundred miles.  Because of that, Mt. Shasta creates a lot of unique wind conditions.  Especially during the winter, spring and early summer, the snow covered mountain provides very little friction for accelerating winds bending around and over this topographic anomaly.  Winds over 100 mph at tree line (8000 ft.) are common.  It's anyone's guess what the winds at 14,000 ft. could be when instruments measure 150 mph winds 6000 ft. lower down on the mountain.  Winds of 40 mph can knock you off balance.  Winds of 60-70 mph can force you to crawl (and cry!).  Hurricane strength winds (>74 mph) can make it nearly impossible to stand and destroy well anchored tents.  The strongest winds occur with big pressure and temperature gradients in the atmosphere, and tend to occur infront of, and behind, storms.  The lowest winds occur when the center of a high pressure is over the Mt. Shasta area.  Take this seriously as wind has resulted in searches, injuries and fatalities.

 
Cartoon images showing the Beaufort Wind Scale. (courtesy US Merchant Marine Academy) 
Take wind seriously - it could be your life!