Artwork: John Muir and Mt. Shasta, drawing by Dan Towner, 2004
 

"A climb of Mt. Shasta is a very special experience.  It presents each individual with the unique opportunity to visit the Mt. Shasta Wilderness, part of the National Wilderness Preservation System...We encourage you to enter into the spirit of wilderness and humbly and carefully make your way through this landscape, ever mindful of the special privilege you have to realize yourself as a creature in harmony with wildness, pursuing the challenge and reward of personal growth.  On your journey to the summit, travel lightly and quietly on the land.  Experience the timelessness of rock and ice, the dormant volcanic energy of a sleeping giant, and the indifference of eternity.  Come prepared to climb a major mountain."
-George Duffy, retired Climbing Ranger

 

USFS Mt. Shasta Climbing Advisory - WINTER STATEMENT 2012

CLIMBERS! YOU WILL NEED THE FOLLOWING MANDATORY ITEMS: 

♦Wilderness Permit, Summit Pass, and Human Waste Pack-out Bags: you can get all of these for self issue at all the trailheads or at the Mt. Shasta Ranger Station 24/7. The Mt. Shasta Ranger Station is open Monday through Friday from 8-4:30pm. Annual summit passes are available for $30 (good Jan. 1 – Dec. 31) at the Mt. Shasta and McCloud Ranger Stations during business hours and at the Fifth Season in Mt. Shasta and REI Sacramento. Regular summit passes (3-days, $20) are available by self issue at all open trailheads, Mt. Shasta Ranger station 24/7, and during business hours at the Fifth Season, Shasta Base Camp or at various REI stores in the Bay Area and Sacramento.  Reservations are not required.
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                                 *****WINTER STATEMENT 2012*****

It is safe to say that most, but not all, of the routes on the mountain are in poor condition. All of the usual hazards exist for climbing the mountain (ie. rock/ice fall, weak snow bridges over crevasses, etc.) This is the time of year when route conditions are at their worst, however becoming better as snow falls. This year we have seen very high winds and very little snow thus far. We have about 6 inches of snow on the ground in the Old Ski Bowl. As for the mountain itself, much of the south and west aspects are swept clean of snow, except for many of the gullies. The north and east sides typically hold snow much better, however recent viewing showed icy conditions on the glacier routes. If you choose to climb during winter.... PLEASE make sure to be prepared. WEAR A HELMET and KNOW HOW TO USE YOUR ICE AXE & CRAMPONS!  Along with shorter daylight hours, winter often brings storms hosting below freezing night time temperatures, strong winds, and limited visibility...and not to mention feet of snow. With the exception of Bunny Flat on the south side of the mountain, the roads to the trailheads are not plowed, so plan ahead.

The Bunny Flat trailhead stays open year round. The road to Bunny Flat is plowed, but not on a regular schedule, and is sometimes closed for several days during storms. All of the other trailheads on Mt. Shasta are closed in the fall and buried in snow during the winter and spring. You are still welcome to access the Mt. Shasta Wilderness from any of the trailheads, but come by the Mt. Shasta or McCloud Ranger Stations for permits/passes and road information or feel free to call. 530-926-4511  Be prepared for long approaches over unplowed, snow covered roads (4-16 miles).

 

We recommend that you DO NOT climb into deteriorating weather as many climbers have become lost, inujured or died in poor weather. 
ALWAYS check the weather before you hike or climb. Have a safe and enjoyable fall season!

Please Note:DOGS ARE NOT ALLOWED IN THE MT. SHASTA WILDERNESS...THANK YOU

Green Butte ridge with Sargents ridge on horizon line in clouds, winter past...Photo: Mike Hupp

OVERALL CONDITIONS:   The overall conditions on the mountain are poor to decent for climbing, depending on what route your choose! This means rock fall is present with very little snow on the mountain. We have experienced only a bit of snow this season and windy conditions...thus what snow we have received has blow away! High winds and warm temperatures above treeline on the mountain have made for scoured, crusty and punchy conditions below 10,000 ft and a very firm and icy surface above. Wind sculpted features provided good texture for climbing above Lake Helen but chances of self arresting on firm ice is a concern for less experienced climbers. Ice screws are recommended. 6 to 18" of snow on the surface.
Below treeline, expect mixed conditions with soft powder pockets in shaded north aspects next to punchy and bare spots.  Skiing for diehards only! The summer trail is packed and icy to the cabin. The lower gulch direct has multiple trails in places and lacking consistent snow. Zero to 12" snow in drifted areas. (From Keith Potts, SMG guide.1-6-12) An ice axe, crampons and helmet are still required AND it is essential that one know how to use the equipment. Self arrest needs to be a mandatory skill to have should one slip and fall. Please use caution...  Rock fall is active on the mountain and you should wear a helmet, always watching above for falling debris.  At a height of 14,179 ft. Mount Shasta is a high altitude peak, and it is common for climbers to experience acute mountain sickness (AMS) with signs and symptoms of nausea, headache, and lightheadedness. Despite being a common condition, AMS should not be taken lightly.  It can quickly develop into the much more serious and deadly pulmonary or cerebral edema.  Stop, take a break, and if symptoms do not improve, descend, descend, descend.  SELF RESCUE IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED should one become injured or sick. Always check the weather forecast before you climb...We recommend that you do not climb into deteriorating weather as many climbers have become lost, injured or died in poor weather.  Check the NWS forecast for the latest.

Always check the weather forecast before climbing and monitor the conditions as you climb.

Anybody ready for some of this? Photo: Garret Smith

Route Info:

Avalanche Gulch– John Muir Route (Regular Route) via Bunny Flat Trailhead: (Gate closed at Bunny Flat) This route is currently in poor shape. The summer trail is partially exposed to Lake Helen. Please stay on the summer trail as best you can. Rock fall is present so PLEASE, wear a helmet, and KNOW HOW TO USE YOUR ICE AXE AND CRAMPONS.  Always keep an eye above for rock fall, and yell "ROCK!" if you see one to warn other climbers below you. The route through Redbanks (RB) is becoming less than desirable. The snow filled chute that most climbers ascent/descend through on the right side of the Redbanks is in poor shape. The Notch, on the upper right side of RB is another option. Traveling onto the Konwokiton Glacier is NOT recommended as the bergschrund is open.  The spring is not running at Horse Camp, so bring extra fuel to melt snow for water. The toilets are OPEN at Horse Camp - pack-out bags are mandatory for removing all solid human waste elsewhere on the mountain. Carry the Ten Essentials.  Learn more about mountaineering skills by reading Freedom of the Hills (published by The Mountaineers) and practicing before your climb, or TAKE A SNOW SCHOOL CLASS.   Three outfitter-guiding services offer classes and guided trips on Mt. Shasta, and their links are on our web page under "Links".

Casaval Ridge, Green Butte/Sargents Ridge via Bunny Flat Trailhead: Casaval is almost completely devoid of snow due to a windy winter, and the cat walk is mostly rock. Rocks are also exposed on the traverse from Casaval to the West Face.  Green Butte/Sargents is in poor shape, and lack of ice/snow on the rock spine above 11,600 pushes the route onto the steep west slope with some necessary route finding through the rock bands.  Be careful not to dislodge rocks onto the Avalanche Gulch climbers below you!  Both of these routes have a lot of exposure for long falls, and are better off for experienced climbers. It's best to wait until we get more snow to climb these routes.

Cascade Gulch, Shastina and West Face via Bunny Flat Trailhead:   Although many books list the Cascade route as easy, it also has a lot of exposure to crevasses where it crosses the upper Whitney glacier, even when minimized to ¼ mile.  Glacier travel training is recommended.  Shastina is mostly free of snow and one will encounter lots of rock if climbing – approach from Hidden Valley/Cascade Gulch.  The West Face is in fair/poor shape. Snow fills most of the West Face gully, though one will likely encounter sections of rock down low on the face. The summer trail to Hidden Valley is mixed rock and snow. No water is available in Hidden Valley.

Sand Flat Trailhead: Closed

Ski Bowl Trailhead: Closed

For trailhead access or route condition information, please call the Mt. Shasta Ranger Station front desk at 530-926-4511 or speak directly to a climbing ranger at 530-926-9614.
Thanks!

Northgate Trailhead: Closed. Please get your summit pass and wilderness permit at the Mt. Shasta or McCloud Ranger Station. Bathrooms are open however and packout bags are available inside. As of 1-6-12, one can drive to this trailhead.

Brewer Creek Trailhead: Closed. Please get your summit pass and wilderness permit at the Mt. Shasta or McCloud Ranger Station. Bathrooms are open however and packout bags are available inside. As of 1-6-12, one can drive fairly close to the trailhead WITH a 4WD vehicle. Snow and ice cover the road.

Clear Creek Trailhead: Closed. Please get your summit pass and wilderness permit at the Mt. Shasta or McCloud Ranger Station. Bathrooms are open however and packout bags are available inside. As of 1-6-12, one can drive fairly close to the trailhead WITH a 4WD vehicle. Snow and ice cover the road. 
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Horse Camp:  The Horse Camp cabin and the surrounding property are owned and managed by the Sierra Club Foundation.  The composting toilet and spring water are closed during the winter months, but are turned on during spring, summer and fall.  The cabin is open year round and all are welcome, however one cannot stay inside the cabin, unless an emergency!  Make sure you close the door when you leave...  
 
ALWAYS check the weather before you hike or climb. Have a safe and enjoyable season.
If you would like more information, feel free to come by the Mt. Shasta Ranger Station for slide shows, pictures, or to speak with a ranger and/or our very helpful front desk personnel.

Hotlum Glacer, September 2011  [Photo: Garret Smith]

Tips:Climb early and descend early! This limits exposure to inclement weather and allows plenty of time to descend before dark. Avalanche training along with a transceiver, shovel and probe are recommended in winter and spring! Get an alpine start (2-5am) and have an early turn around time around 12 to 1 pm.  Proper equipment, clothing and training are a must.  Helmets are recommended and expect rock or ice fall at all times. Mt. Shasta is a 14,000 ft. lightning rod and is frequently hit by lightning (usually in summer and fall months), so don’t push your luck with building thunderheads. Do not expect to be rescued.  Rather, prevent rescues from happening in the first place, and be prepared to handle rescues within your own climbing party should something happen. Nature sets its' own terms and YOU must judge how much risk you are willing to accept. Extra warm gear, like a balaclava, is a good idea in winter, spring and fall as climbers often develop superficial frost bite during strong winds. The wind chill temperature near the summit in winter and spring can be well below zero.

Best time to climb:The best time to climb Mt. Shasta is generally from late May to mid July on the SW side of the mountain when summer days are longer and the weather is generally stable.  However, in dry years (2007/2008), the thin snow pack creates the best climbing conditions in April, May and early June. When the snow melts away, you are left with 7000 feet of scree, talus and boulders. In heavy snow years the climbing season extends to August or September.  There is NO trail to the summit. Climbing is much more fun on consolidated snow!  The routes on the north and east sides are not recommended for un-guided novices; glacier travel and route finding skills are prerequisites.  Spring and summer can bring the chance of thunderstorms. 
THE TEN ESSENTIALS-Keep you and your party out of search and rescue statistics by using common sense and carrying the following: map, compass, sunglasses/sunscreen, extra food and water, extra clothing, headlamp/flashlight, first aid kit, matches/lighter, stove, knife and a bivy sack.
If you choose to climb: Solo climbing is not recommended!  Traveling with an experienced group is a good idea, and remember - do not split up the group!  Wear a helmet, use common sense and carry the ten essentials.  The mountain has extreme weather changes.  Therefore, it is a good idea to set-up a turn around time for your party.

A note on wind...  Mount Shasta stands by itself in the atmosphere.  There is nothing anywhere near its' height for over a hundred miles.  Because of that, Mt. Shasta creates a lot of unique wind conditions.  Especially during the winter, spring and early summer, the snow covered mountain provides very little friction for accelerating winds bending around and over this topographic anomaly.  Winds over 100 mph at tree line (8000 ft.) are common.  It's anyone's guess what the winds at 14,000 ft. could be when instruments measure 150 mph winds 6000 ft. lower down on the mountain.  Winds of 40 mph can knock you off balance.  Winds of 60-70 mph can force you to crawl (and cry!).  Hurricane strength winds (>74 mph) can make it nearly impossible to stand and destroy well anchored tents.  The strongest winds occur with big pressure and temperature gradients in the atmosphere, and tend to occur in front of, and behind, storms.  The lowest winds occur when the center of a high pressure is over the Mt. Shasta area.  Take this seriously as wind has resulted in searches, injuries and fatalities.
 

Cartoon images showing the Beaufort Wind Scale. (courtesy US Merchant Marine Academy) 
Take wind seriously - it could be your life!