USFS Mt. Shasta Climbing Advisory Updated by the Climbing Rangers July 3rd, 2009
CLIMBERS! YOU WILL NEED THE FOLLOWING: 
♦Wilderness Permit, Summit Pass, and Human Waste Pack-out Bags: you can get all of these for self issue at all the trailheads or at the Mt. Shasta Ranger Station 24/7. The Mt. Shasta Ranger Station is open 7 days a week from 8-4:30pm.  Annual summit passes for $30 (good Jan. 1 – Dec. 31) are available at the Mt. Shasta and McCloud Ranger Stations during business hours and at the Fifth Season in Mt. Shasta and REI Sacramento. Regular summit passes (3-days, $20) are available by self issue at open trailheads, Mt. Shasta Ranger station 24/7, and during business hours at the Fifth Season, Shasta Base Camp or at various REI stores in the Bay Area and Sacramento.  Reservations are not required.  
  ♦Check Current weather forecast. 
  ♦WARM clothing – NO COTTON - carry the ten essentials! 
  ♦Overcoming summit fever and knowing when to turn around.

Always check the weather forecast before climbing and monitor the conditions as you climb. 

The chutes in the Red Banks, climber's right of heart on 6/28/09.  Climbers are choosing the left chute as the snow continues all the way through and up to Misery Hill.

Route Info: 

Avalanche Gulch – John Muir Route (Regular Route) via Bunny Flat Trailhead:  This route is in good shape right now.  Rock fall is always present and you should always be observant as sun warms the slopes above.  A few were hit by small rocks last weekend with minor injuries, but a few close calls occurred with big rocks.  Look above you, move laterally and yell "ROCK!" to warn climbers below.  Climbing conditions on the headwall portion of the route have settled into typical early summer conditions consisting of firm snow in the early hours making for great climbing and softening for glissading by mid day. The trail to Lake Helen is dirt until 50/50 and then switches to snow. We are recommending that climbers ascend right of the Heart, and up through the left most chute in the Red Banks. Traversing up and toward the "Thumb" accessing the "Notch" in the ridge top proper is also a low risk alternative. Circling around the ridge and crossing the top of the Konwakiton Glacier is not advised. Snow bridges covering the moat are becoming very thin and weak.  We DO NOT recommend glissading through the Red Banks. Down climb through the Red Banks, then if you decide to glissade, make sure the snow is soft.  DO NOT wear crampons glissading, or injuries will be likely. Take a class, and/or practice your self arrest with an ice axe.  Self arrest must be immediate if one falls!  The water is running at Horse Camp, the toilets are open, and a caretaker is on duty.  Carry the Ten Essentials.  Learn more about mountaineering skills by reading Freedom of the Hills (published by The Mountaineers) and practicing before your climb, or TAKE A SNOW SCHOOL CLASS.   Three outfitter-guiding services offer classes and guided trips on Mt. Shasta, and their links are under "Links" or below the photo on this page.

Casaval Ridge, Green Butte/Sargents Ridge via Bunny Flat Trailhead:  Conditions on Casaval ridge are poor with steep talus/scree sections on the route forcing the route below the ridge proper.  The Catwalk at 12,600 is mostly rock. Most traverse left before the Catwalk and finish on the upper portions of the West Face.   Green Butte/Sargents ridge is in very poor shape due to lack of ice/snow on the route. This pushes the route onto the steep west slope with some difficult route finding through the chossy rock bands being neccessary and rock fall a big hazard.  Sargents is MUCH better when the ridge is well coated with snow and ice and the route can stay on the ridge proper. We recommend waiting until next winter/spring for this route.

The Mt. Shasta summit on 6/28/09.

Cascade Gulch, Shastina and West Face via Bunny Flat Trailhead:  Although many books list the Cascade route as easy, it also has a lot of exposure where it crosses the upper Whitney glacier, even when minimized to ¼ mile.  Glacier travel training is recommended.  Snowbridges continue to cover the large crevasses on the upper glacier and they will be weak on warm days.  Shastina is in OK shape however, snow is melting fast and it is mostly rock above the saddle at 12,000 ft. to the summit. The West Face is in good condition for climbing. The trail from Horse Camp  to Hidden Valley is melted out.  Always be prepared for wind when camping in Hidden Valley as it can become a wind tunnel during N/NW winds. Running water is likely on warm days, but be prepared to melt snow.

Sand Flat Trailhead:  Open. Wilderness permits, pack-out bags & Summit passes available.  Please deposit used human waste pack-out bags and trash at the Bunny Flat trailhead.

Ski Bowl Trailhead: Open.  Permits, passes and pack-out bags are available.  Please deposit used human waste pack-out bags at the Bunny Flat trailhead.  There is no system trail out of this trailhead and some route finding is necessary.  Come by the Mt. Shasta Ranger station daily from 8-4:30 for good route descriptions out of this trailhead.

The routes on the north and east sides are not for novices!   Watch for weak snow bridges over the crevasses, especially on warm days!   

Northgate Trailhead: Open.  The trail is mostly melted out and the Hotlum/Bolam route is in good shape.  Snow still covers much of the standard high camp, but running water can be found in places.  Most of the crevasses and schrunds are bridged on portions of the Hotlum and Whitney glaciers, but this is the season when they get thin and break, especially on the lower portions of the glaciers.  Most routes accessible from this trailhead are in good shape.  Running water may be found on warm days in some exposed areas. 

Brewer Creek Trailhead: Open. Routes from this trailhead are in good shape.  OK skiing conditions can be found on the Hotlum/Wintun route, with a few ribbons of snow leading back to tree line and the trail.  Watch for weak snow bridges on all glacier routes from this trailhead, especially on the lower portions of the glaciers.  Some exposed running water can be found, but be prepared to melt snow.  People often get lost finding their way back to their vehicles, so carry a map and compass and pay attention!

Clear Creek Trailhead: Open. Clear Creek and Wintun Ridge routes are in OK shape. Some talus/scree exists on both routes.  Skiing is done. Only a ribbon of snow remains on the Clear Creek route to 13,000 ft., with mostly snow above. Snow still covers much of the spring and creek area at the main high camp - be prepared to melt snow. 

Climbers resting on a boulder which cascaded down Avalanche Gulch on 6/27/09, barely missing 2 climbers.

If any of this information is new to you, consider contacting one of the 3 permitted outfitters on Mt. Shasta (Alpine Skills International, Shasta Mountain Guides, Sierra Wilderness Seminars).

If you would like more information, feel free to come by the Mt. Shasta Ranger Station for slide shows, pictures, or to speak with a ranger and/or our very helpful front desk personnel.

Tips: Climb early and descend early! This limits exposure to inclement weather and allows plenty of time to descend before dark. Avalanche training along with a transceiver, shovel and probe are recommended in winter and spring! Get an alpine start (2-6am) and have an early turn around time around 12 to 1 pm.  Proper equipment, clothing and training are a must.  Helmets are recommended and expect rock or ice fall at all times. Mt. Shasta is a 14,000 ft. lightning rod and is frequently hit by lightning, so don’t push your luck with building thunderheads. Do not expect to be rescued.  Rather, prevent rescues from happening in the first place, and be prepared to handle rescues within your own climbing party should something happen. Nature sets its' own terms and YOU must judge how much risk you are willing to accept. Extra warm gear, like a balaclava, is a good idea in winter and spring as climbers often develop superficial frost bite during strong winds. The wind chill temperature near the summit in winter and spring can be well below zero.

Best time to climb: The best time to climb Mt. Shasta is generally from late May to mid July on the SW side of the mountain when summer days are longer and the weather is generally stable.  However, in dry years (2007/2008), the thin snow pack creates the best climbing conditions in April, May and early June. When the snow melts away, you are left with 7000 feet of scree, talus and boulders. There is NO trail to the summit. Climbing is much more fun on consolidated snow!  The routes on the north and east sides are not recommended for un-guided novices; glacier travel and route finding skills are prerequisites.  Spring and summer can bring the chance of thunderstorms. 

THE TEN ESSENTIALS- Keep you and your party out of search and rescue statistics by using common sense and carrying the following: map, compass, sunglasses/sunscreen, extra food and water, extra clothing, headlamp/flashlight, first aid kit, matches/lighter, stove, knife and a bivy sack.
If you choose to climb: Solo climbing is not recommended!  Traveling with an experienced group is a good idea, and remember - do not split up the group!  Wear a helmet, use common sense and carry the ten essentials.  The mountain has extreme weather changes.  Therefore, it is a good idea to set-up a turn around time for you and