Avalanche Gulch – John Muir Route (Regular Route) via Bunny Flat Trailhead:  This route is in OK shape with the exception of rock fall.  Got helmet?  Skiing in Avalanche Gulch is OK below 11,000 ft. with scattered rocks, dirty snow and sticky conditions below treeline.  Many mid to late season rocks are exposed now around the Red Banks, the Heart, Helen Lake and the various moraines.  Most climbers are going through the chutes in the Red Banks, above and to the climber’s right of the Heart.  The traditional early season route by Thumb Rock is starting to see the moat and crevasses open and it’s better to stay in the chutes.  Be prepared for winds at Lake Helen and anchor your tent well.  Several rock sites are already exposed, but shelter from the wind is found against the wind snow berm at Helen (bring a shovel).  The trail to Horse Camp is buried, so carry a map and pay attention– people frequently get lost early season returning to Bunny Flat.  There is no running water at Horse Camp right now, but the toilets are open.   Carry the Ten Essentials.  Learn more about mountaineering skills by reading Freedom of the Hills (published by The Mountaineers) and practicing before your climb, or TAKE A SNOW SCHOOL CLASS.   Three outfitter-guiding services offer classes and guided trips on Mt. Shasta, and their links are on our home page.

Casaval Ridge, Green Butte/Sargents Ridge via Bunny Flat Trailhead:  Casaval is in OK to poor shape.  Due to exposed loose rock patches, several detours below the ridge crest are being used which pulls you away from the ridge proper – probably not much time left on this route.   Green Butte/Sargents is done due to poor conditions from 11,800 to 12,800, the crux of the route.  This is due to lack of snow, leaving loose, steep rock.  This is a winter route and it would be best to wait until next winter.   

Cascade Gulch, Shastina and West Face via Bunny Flat Trailhead:  Although many books list the Cascade route as easy, it also has a lot of exposure where it crosses the upper Whitney glacier, even when minimized to ¼ mile.  Snow bridges over crevasses will be weaker on warm days - Glacier travel training is recommended.  Shastina is still in good shape for climbing via Cascade Gulch and west from the saddle (12,000 ft.) but limited for skiing.  West Face is in good condition with decent skiing, but very thin at 13,200 ft.  Portions of the summer trail to Hidden Valley are already exposed.

Sand Flat Trailhead:  Closed due to snow (3.5 ft.).   

Ski Bowl Trailhead: Closed due to snow (6 feet).

<>The routes on the north and east sides are not for novices!   Watch for weak snow bridges over the crevasses, especially on warm days!  These trailheads are all closed and buried in snow, so add extra time to your climb.  Come by Ranger Stations for the latest information and permits and passes.

Northgate Trailhead: Closed.  Expect 1.5 mile approach to trailhead.  Some ice patches are already showing on the N and NW side of the mountain as well as wind scoured rock patches.

Brewer Creek Trailhead: Closed.  Expect 16 miles of snow covered road to trailhead.  Snow still covers the 19 road at the Pilgrim Creek snowmobile parking area.

Clear Creek Trailhead: Closed.  Expect 6 mile approach to trailhead. 

 If any of this information is new to you, contact one of the 3 permitted outfitters on Mt. Shasta.

Tips:   Climb early and descend early!  This limits exposure to lightning and wet slides in the warm afternoon temperatures.  Avalanche training along with a transceiver, shovel and probe are recommended!  Get an alpine start (3-5am) and have an early turn around time around 11am-12 pm.  Proper equipment, clothing and training are a must.  Helmets are recommended and I would expect chunks of ice to break off the rocks and tumble down the slopes with warm spring temperatures.  Do not expect to be rescued.  Rather, prevent rescues from happening in the first place, and be prepared to handle rescues within your own climbing party should something happen. Nature sets its' own terms and YOU must judge how much risk you are willing to accept.  Extra warm gear, like a balaclava, is a good idea as climbers often develop superficial frost bite during wind.  Today’s wind chill temperature near the summit is -29F!

Best time to climb:  The best time to climb Mt. Shasta is generally from late May to mid July on the SW side of the mountain.  In addition summer days are longer and the weather is generally stable.  The routes on the north and east sides are not recommended for un-guided novices; glacier travel and route finding skills are prerequisites.  Spring and summer can bring the chance of thunderstorms. 

THE TEN ESSENTIALS- Keep you and your party out of search and rescue statistics by using common sense and carrying the following: map, compass, sunglasses/sunscreen, extra food and water, extra clothing, headlamp/flashlight, first aid kit, matches/lighter, stove, knife and a bivy sack.
If you choose to climb:  Solo climbing is not recommended!  Traveling with an experienced group is a good idea, and remember do not split up the group!  Wear a helmet, use common sense and carry the ten essentials.  The mountain has extreme weather changes.  Therefore, it is a good idea to set-up a turn around time for you and your party.  Most people find that noon is a good time to turn around to allow plenty of time to descend.  So, climb early and descend early!  If you see clouds forming, turn around before there is a whiteout or lightning! Climbers should keep an eye to the sky and constantly monitor the weather around them; additionally it is a must to avoid upper slopes and ridges during any sort of storm activity, due to electrical storms!  Climbers should always be prepared for very cold temperatures (-29F wind chill @ summit today 4/6/08); this includes bringing adequate layers of clothing and the ten essentials. 
Leave No Trace:
Please keep the mountain clean!  Mt. Shasta’s alpine environment is very fragile.  Be responsible in packing out all the garbage and waste that you packed in with you and your party.  Make sure you pack out all the little micro trash such as; wrappers, extra food particles, buried anchors for tents, parachute chord, matches, cigarettes and any other trash.  PLEASE DO NOT BURY FECAL MATTER OR EXTRA FOOD.  This will just make the critters and humans sick!  Make sure you urinate away and down hill from bivy sites and at least 200’ from water sources.  The Human Waste Packout Bags, are available at the Mt. Shasta Ranger Station, The Fifth Season or at the Bunny Flat trailhead.
We appreciate you helping us take care of your Mt. Shasta Wilderness!  
*In the last 5 years, we have collected over 11 tons of human body waste that climbers have carried off The Mountain and down to trailheads.  We appreciate your participation! *Climb and descend safely!!
"The beauty of wild places frequently becomes their undoing as they attract visitors - leaving the landscape touched by human hands and eventually less than wild...
As mountaineers traveling in the wilderness, our minimum charge for this privilege is to leave the hills as we found them, with no sign of our passing.  We must study the places we visit and become sensitive to their vulnerability, then camp and climb in ways that minimize our impact."-Mountaineering, The Freedom of the Hills, 6th edition, Mountaineers Press, 1997