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Avalanche Gulch Conditions

Climbing Route(s): Avalanche Gulch
Mt. Shasta
Date/Time of Observation: 
Sunday, March 6, 2022 - 12:00pm

General Conditions

The 1-3" of new snow on Mt Shasta has improved the snow surface conditions and smoothed out some of the tracks and suncups formed over the past couple months of dry weather. Overall the sliding conditions are better than they have been in weeks, but there are still rough patches of old frozen snow and some new sastrugi. The day stayed pretty cold on the mountain, with a high temperature of 30°F at 8,000'. The wind tapered off in the afternoon and it was mostly calm at Lake Helen at 2:00 p.m. Climbing conditions look pretty good up high. There is a fresh plaster of rime ice on the Red Banks and Trinity Chutes so this will be something to be aware of if climbing during the next week. As it warms up, icefall will become more abundant. If climbing, it's a good idea not to be ascending under the Red Banks when the sun begins to warm the ice. The upper mountain did not appear to have held much snow out of the last storm and avalanches are most likely a non-issue up there, but keep an eye out for isolated pockets of wind slab nonetheless. No climbers have summited since this storm cleared out. See pictures below for a better idea of current conditions.


  • Avalanche Gulch from Spring Hill 3.6.22
  • Avalanche Gulch 3.6.22
  • Avalanche Gulch from Lake Helen 3.6.22
  • Zoom in shot up upper Avalanche Gulch route from Lake Helen 3.6.22