Mount Shasta Avalanche and Climbing Information

Welcome the Mt. Shasta avalanche and climbing information website.

  • April 15, 2018 @ 5:02 am

    Advisory Hotline: (530) 926-9613

  • The Mount Shasta Avalanche Center has closed its doors for the 2017-2018 winter season. We will resume issuing daily avalanche advisories in the fall of 2018.

    The climbing rangers will be updating the Overall Climbing Conditions and Climbing Route webpages throughout the 2018 climbing season. Avalanche activity will likely continue to occur this spring throughout the advisory area. For an overview of the most common springtime avalanche concerns, please read the full spring avalanche statement below.

    Read the Full Advisory

May 21, 2018

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The spring season on Mount Shasta is off and running. Climbing and skiing conditions are good above 8,500 feet where continuous snow begins. Patchy snow cover and dirt will be encountered below that. For anyone approaching southside routes, we please ask that all traffic take the summertime trail to Horse Camp. It is mostly snow free and marked with wands. Please stay on the trail. 

We've had a mix of weather recently including rain, snow and frequent thunderstorms. Spring is the time when anything is possible. All routes accessed from Bunny Flat are in good shape, although the ridge routes are melting out quickly. Be on the lookout for rockfall and rime icefall. A climber got hit in the head and knocked out this past week. Another climber slipped and fell 1,000 feet, fracturing an ankle. Both accidents occurred in Avalanche Gulch. Thankfully, both climbers will make a full recovery. Be careful out there folks! 

The bathrooms are open and water is available at Horse Camp. Please note that this water has not been tested yet this year so drink at your own risk. Historically there has never been a problem with the water. Some of the other routes/aspects of the mountain host prolonged approaches, however Northgate and Clear Creek TH's are now open. For trailhead update details, see most recent observation.

Good climbing conditions on Mount Shasta have shifted back earlier due to a low snow winter. Now is the time to take advantage of the best conditions on the mountain. As always, wear a helmet, bring an ice axe and crampons and know how to properly self-arrest. Do not let spring-like conditions lure you into complacency. Always check the weather before you climb. Understand that if something goes wrong, or a member of your climbing party gets injured, you need to be prepared to self-rescue.

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