04-17-2016-Hotlum/Bolam Ridge

Road access to the North Gate TH is currently limited due to snow.  You can get to within 1.3 road miles of the trail head facilities before you are stopped by a sizeable snow drift. Good conditions will be found on this route: firm snow, very little icy patches, low rockfall. The normal high camp just below 10,000 feet is entirely snow covered, so expect winter camping conditions. The stream is currently not accessible due to snow converage, and we do not expect it to open until almost June. When you can access the snow melt fed stream we recommend treating the water. Standard glacial travel protocol is a must if venturing onto the glaciers. That said, if one stays on the Hot/Bol ridge route, no crevasses/bergschrunds will be encountered. Some crevasses on the Hotlum glacier may blend into the seasonal snow fields...be careful if you're not familiar with the glacier boundaries. Weak snow bridges are always the issue during spring/summer months as the warm temperatures and sun thin the bridges.  Self arrest skills are a must on this route. Icy patches are common and can make for difficult self arrest, even for the seasoned pro. The typical bergshrund climbers left of the route, below the ramp, is melted out. Be careful in this area, stay clear of the glacier by sticking well to the climbers right up the lower portion of the route, then traversing left onto the ramp. Be especially careful when descending. Cut back to the left immediately after descending the ramp.