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Climbing Advisory

05-30-20 General Conditions & Climbing Information

The Bottom Line

The Mount Shasta Wilderness area closure order has been lifted, and normal use is permitted. That said, nice weather doesn't mean the Coronavirus is over. All individuals living in the State of California are (still) currently ordered to stay at home. Click here for California Coronavirus Response information.

Recently, warm days continue to melt the snow quickly, and poor overnight re-freeze has left mushy and sticky snow at lower elevations. Elsewhere, snow textures are variable with wind-sculpted sastrugi, packed powder, and mixed patches of smooth melt-freeze corn snow. Skiing is still possible on the South Side of Mount Shasta however, one must carry skis over a number of large rocky sections to gain access to continuous snow. As the summer trails begin to melt out, PLEASE stay on path as best you can in an effort to limit resource degradation. On the south side, the trail is marked to Horse Camp and we are asking all traffic to please take this trail for the remainder of the season.

A series of thunderstorms are scheduled to move into the area this morning and linger throughout the weekend (05/30). Be prepared. Always check the weather before you climb. The National Weather Service's Recreational Report is an excellent place to start. Have "mountain sense" and make sound decisions. DO NOT climb into a whiteout. 

Conditions Update

REQUIRED TO CLIMB MT SHASTA: Summit pass ($25 and required above 10,000 feet, even if you don't plan on going to the summit), wilderness permit (free) and human waste pack-out bag. All of these items are available for self-issue at all OPEN trailheads or the Mount Shasta/McCloud Ranger Stations and The Fifth Season store in downtown Mount Shasta. Annual passes are available from The 5th Season, 300 N. Mount Shasta Blvd. Due to COVID-19, the ranger stations are still closed.



TRAILHEAD UPDATE 5.30.20

Bunny Flat: open, gate at Bunny Flat is closed, foot traffic past gate okay. Old Ski Bowl, Panther Meadows, Panther campground is closed due to snow.

Clear Creek: open,  full access. All required items to climb available at the trailhead. 

Brewer Creek: open, access blocked 0.5 miles from trailhead due to snow. Restrooms, summit passes (3-day/$25), wilderness permits and human waste packout bags available. 

Northgate: open, full access. All required items to climb available at the trailhead.

Military Pass: open, no snow

Overall, we have had a dry winter on Mount Shasta. In terms of total precipitation for the winter, we are 50% of normal for the season and 45% for the year. February was the driest on record since 1948. Currently, there are 16 inches of snow near treeline on the south side of the mountain (7,800 ft). 

In Avalanche Gulch, continuous snow can be found above Spring Hill. Smooth and firm snow surfaces exist in the gullies and at upper elevations. Most of the moraine tops have melted out. Below and near treeline is an obstacle course of partially buried objects. 

It has been a funky season all things considered: a poor winter, the C-19 pandemic, and mixed spring weather. We always encourage people to challenge themselves with new (or familiar) adventures, but we ask that you please take all things into consideration this year. As always, check the weather and be prepared. Slips/falls and climbers becoming lost on Mount Shasta continue to be the top search and rescue incidents, every year. These accidents are easily avoided by carrying proper navigation tools and knowing how to use your equipment. Further, be honest with your mountaineering knowledge, skills, and ability. If it doesn't feel right, it likely isn't.

The gate is closed at Bunny Flat until July. Running water is available at Horse Camp, and the bathrooms are open.  Make sure to bring extra fuel to melt snow for water if camping elsewhere. There are dry camping sites starting to melt out at Lake Helen. Camp cleanliness and overall mountain sanitation are very important to us and other climbers. When traveling in the wilderness always follow leave no trace principles.  Minimize your impact. Plan ahead and prepare. Travel and camp on durable surfaces. Depose of waste properly. Leave what you find. Always respect wildlife. 

Bunny Flat Trailhead

Again, know that the State of California is still under a state-wide shelter-in-place order due to the Covid-19 pandemic. It's not uncommon for Bunny Flat to host hundreds of people. Rangers and the Mount Shasta community would be stoked to avoid this. The Bunny Flat trailhead and Mount Shasta Wilderness are open.  There is no water available at the trailhead. Bathrooms are provided and overnight camping is permitted. If you have a large RV, please park out of the way and downhill from the restrooms. 

Don't hesitate to give us a call for your specific questions at 530-926-9614. We're in the field a lot, but we'll call you back within a day or so.

Winter Considerations

SPRING SNOW STORMS: Spring storms on Mount Shasta have the ability to bring very cold, very windy, winter-like conditions. Avalanche danger can rapidly rise. Paying attention to the 5 red flags of avalanche danger can often keep one out of trouble.

1- Recent Avalanches  2 - Shooting Cracks / Whoomphing  3 - Recent, heavy snow  4- Wind blowing snow  5 - Rapid warming

New snow can make for great skiing, but poor climbing. It often takes several days or longer for new snow to consolidate. Post-holing can make climbing on foot very arduous. As always, check the weather and conditions before you go and carry proper avalanche equipment if avalanches are a concern.

Bring the proper equipment with the knowledge to use it effectively. Currently, this includes:

  • Avalanche beacon
  • Shovel
  • Probe

The ability to use these tools in a rescue, and to be able to identify avalanche terrain and snow stability is absolutely necessary.

Also, remember to bring standard winter mountaineering equipment:

  • Warm winter clothing
  • A robust tent
  • Proper navigation tools (electronics fail quickly in cold weather)
  • An ice axe and crampons.

DO NOT attempt to climb Mount Shasta without proper training, preparation and research. Despite being 15 minutes off the interstate, Mount Shasta is a real mountain with real consequences.

The road to Bunny Flat Trailhead (6,950 feet) is plowed and open. The gate to the Old Ski Bowl is closed. There are bathrooms, but NO running water or other facilities.

REQUIRED TO CLIMB MT SHASTA: Summit pass ($25 and required above 10,000 feet, even if you don't plan on going to the summit), wilderness permit (free) and human waste pack-out bag. All of these items are available for self-issue at all OPEN trailheads or the Mount Shasta/McCloud Ranger Stations and The Fifth Season store in downtown Mount Shasta. Annual passes are available from The 5th Season, 300 N. Mount Shasta Blvd starting on 5/22/20. Due to COVID-19, the ranger stations are still closed.

Be Prepared!!

Our goal is to ensure you have a positive wilderness experience and come home in one piece! So,

  • BE PREPARED
  • DO YOUR RESEARCH
  • ALWAYS WEAR A HELMET
  • KNOW HOW TO USE YOUR ICE AXE & CRAMPONS.
  • CARRY PROPER NAVIGATION TOOLS AND KNOW HOW TO USE THEM
  • REMEMBER, YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY.

Accidents and Hazards

Almost all the accidents on Mount Shasta result from:

  • Slipping and falling with a failure to self-arrest
  • Glissading when the snow is too firm
  • Glissading with crampons on
  • Climbing into a whiteout
  • Being struck by early-season icefall or late season rockfall

With the right knowledge, skill, equipment, and decision making, all of these accidents can be easily prevented. Please, wear a helmet, and know how to use your ice axe and crampons any time of the year.

There is always the potential for thunderstorm activity during the summer months that can shroud the mountain in clouds, limiting visibility. Climbers becoming disoriented on the upper mountain in whiteout conditions, and subsequently descending the wrong route is not uncommon. These kinds of scenarios have resulted in many searches over the years. It should go without saying, but we will say it as a solid reminder: Check the weather before you go and more importantly, monitor the weather as you climb. DO NOT CLIMB INTO A WHITEOUT! Being caught on the mountain in any type of weather can compromise life and limb.

Many hazards exist in mountain terrain. Some of these include:

  • Ice and rockfall
  • Altitude
  • Extreme weather
  • Avalanches

Icefall and rockfall are possible year-round. It's a simple equation: as snow melts, rockfall increases. If rime ice is seen plastered to exposed rocks above, it will eventually flake off and fall onto climbers. Wear a helmet and keep your eyes up slope as you climb. Pay attention to other climbers: rockfall is often caused by climbers resting in melted out areas and accidentally dislodging rocks onto slopes and climbers below. Be careful not to kick rocks down onto others.

At a height of 14,179 feet, Mount Shasta is a high altitude peak. It is common for climbers to experience acute mountain sickness (AMS) with signs and symptoms of nausea, headache, and lightheadedness. Despite being a common condition, AMS should not be taken lightly. It can quickly develop into the much more serious, and potentially deadly pulmonary or cerebral edema. Stop and take a break. If symptoms do not improve, your only choice is to descend!

Mount Shasta is a 14, 179 foot volcano with steep slopes, avalanches, glaciers, rockfall, altitude, and extreme weather. Some may feel like Mount Shasta is "safe" due to it's proximity to Interstate 5 and it's "easy" climbing objective connotation. This is false. One should still expect cold, winter-like conditions at any time of year. Have the appropriate gear AND skill level. Mountaineering is dangerous and climbers must be able to constantly evaluate the terrain, weather, and many other factors in order to have a safe trip. One should also not expect immediate rescue. Many factors can prolong rescues. Thus, it is necessary, no matter what mountain of the world, that you be prepared.

Mountain Weather

Check the WEATHER FORECAST before coming up onto Mount Shasta! Our site's main menu hosts numerous resources on the weather. Researching the mountain weather should be an important part of your trip planning.

Clouds and Precipitation: While you may encounter fair weather at lower elevations, cloud caps can form up high. Never climb into a whiteout as many climbers have become lost or died in similar conditions. Many routes from all aspects of Mount Shasta converge on the upper mountain (>12,500 feet). During limited visibility conditions, climbers have descended the wrong side of the mountain. Keep an eye to the sky as you climb, turning around if clouds begin to build on or near the mountain.

Lightning: Mount Shasta is a 14,000 foot lightning rod and is frequently hit by lightning (usually in summer and fall months), so don't push your luck with building thunderheads.

Wind: Winds can reach over 100 mph at tree line (8,000 ft) and much higher in the alpine region. Winds of 40 mph can knock you off balance. Winds of 60-70 mph can force you to crawl. Hurricane strength winds (>74 mph) can make it nearly impossible to stand and will destroy well-anchored tents. The strongest winds occur with big pressure and temperature gradients in the atmosphere and tend to occur in front of, and behind storms. The lowest winds occur when the center of high pressure is over the Mount Shasta area. Take this seriously as the wind has resulted in searches, injuries, and fatalities.

Tips & Notes

Climb early and descend early. This limits exposure to inclement weather (afternoon buildup of clouds is common), and allows plenty of time to descend before dark, and also allows a rescue effort to ensue before dark in the event one gets injured or lost.

Get an alpine start (2-5 am) and have a turn around time of 12 to 1 pm. Proper equipment, clothing, and training are a must. Helmets are recommended always and expect rock and ice fall at all times.

Bring extra warm gear (like a down jacket, balaclava, and extra gloves) in all seasons as climbers often develop superficial frostbite during strong winds. The wind chill temperature near the summit in winter and spring can be well below zero.

Anchor your tent well wherever you camp. Tents can and do blow away frequently. Do not plan to camp above treeline if you do not have anchor lines for your tent.

Solo climbing is not recommended. Traveling with an experienced group is a good idea, and remember - do not split up the group!

The routes on the north and east sides are not recommended for unguided novices; glacier travel and route finding skills are prerequisites.

Get avalanche training and know-how to use your transceiver, shovel, and probe in the winter and spring.

Mountain Rescue

Do not expect to be rescued. Rather, prevent rescues from happening in the first place, and be prepared to handle rescues within your climbing party should something happen. Nature sets its own terms and YOU must judge how much risk you are willing to accept.

When to Climb

The BEST time to climb Mount Shasta is usually from late May to mid-July on the south and west sides of the mountain when summer days are longer and the weather is generally stable. However, in dry years, the thin snowpack creates the best climbing conditions in April, May and early June. When the snow melts, you are left with 7,000 feet of scree, talus, and boulders. In heavy snow years, the climbing season extends to August or September. There is NO trail to the summit. Climbing is much safer and fun on consolidated snow.

A winter climb of Mount Shasta is possible, but it is more difficult and dangerous: extreme weather, short days, avalanches, falling ice and potential post-holing increase the difficulty and danger on all routes. If you choose to travel in the backcountry during the winter and spring, you need to have the proper equipment and training to stay safe. An avalanche beacon, shovel, and probe and the ability to identify avalanche terrain and snow stability are e. A climb of Shasta should not be taken lightly.

Every year, many climbers become lost, injured or killed while attempting Mount Shasta. Many of these accidents could have been prevented with a little bit of pre-planning and training. Full winter conditions exist currently and YOU need to come prepared.

What to Bring

  • MANDATORY: wilderness permit, summit pass, human waste pack-out bags.
  • THE TEN ESSENTIALS: map and compass, sunglasses and sunscreen, extra food and water, extra clothing, headlamp/flashlight, first aid kit, matches/lighter, stove, knife/multi-tool, bivy sack
  • HELMET, ICE-AXE, & CRAMPONS
  • AVALANCHE BEACON, AVALANCHE PROBE, SHOVEL

Wilderness permits, summit passes, and pack-out bags are currently available at the Mount Shasta and McCloud Ranger Stations for self-issue and inside the buildings (maps available) during business hours. Packout bags are available at trailheads, but you must get your summit pass ($25) and wilderness permit from either ranger station. Annual passes ($30) are only available at the ranger stations and The Fifth Season in Mount Shasta. The Mount Shasta and McCloud Ranger Stations are open Monday through Friday from 8 to 4:30 PM. Check our climbing regulations for more details.

Using common sense and carrying the TEN essentials keep you and your party out of search and rescue statistics. Wear a helmet, and know how to use your ice axe and crampons. Be prepared and pay attention. The mountain has extreme weather changes.

Winter and Spring months usually see periods of heightened avalanche danger, though this danger could exist in the summer months under the right circumstances. Research the weather and avalanche danger while planning your trip. Have your climbing party bring avalanche beacons, probes, and shovels armed with proficient skills in their use. Know how to identify avalanche terrain and evaluate snowpack stability.

Horse Camp

The bathrooms at Horse Camp are open and water is available. The drinking water is safe and tested annually. Elsewhere on the mountain, you must pack out your human waste and melt snow for water. The Horse Camp cabin and the surrounding property are owned and managed by the Sierra Club Foundation. The cabin is open year-round and all are welcome, however, one cannot sleep inside the cabin except in emergencies. Make sure you close the door when you leave. If you plan on camping at Horse Camp, a nominal $3 bivy/$5 tent fee is asked. Lastly, the Sierra Club Foundation manages its property under the Mount Shasta Wilderness rules - that means dogs are not allowed on their property either. Please respect the rules. Thanks!

Dogs

DOGS ARE NOT ALLOWED IN THE MOUNT SHASTA WILDERNESS OR WITHIN THE SIERRA CLUB PROPERTY BOUNDARIES (HORSE CAMP). See map below.