Mount Shasta Avalanche and Climbing Information

Welcome the Mt. Shasta avalanche and climbing information website.

April 14, 2019 @ 6:48 am

The Mount Shasta Avalanche Center has closed its doors for the 2018-2019 winter season. We will resume issuing daily avalanche advisories in the fall of 2019.

The climbing rangers will be updating the 'overall climbing conditions' and 'climbing route' webpages throughout the 2019 climbing season. Avalanche activity will likely continue to occur this spring throughout the advisory area. For an overview of the most common springtime avalanche concerns, please read the full spring avalanche statement below.

Read the Full Forecast

No current avalanche forecast is available

No current avalanche forecast is available

No current avalanche forecast is available

July 11, 2019

Shasta Mountain Ranger Logo

REQUIRED TO CLIMB MT SHASTA: Summit pass ($25 and required above 10,000 feet, even if you don't plan on going to the summit), wilderness permit (free) and human waste pack-out bag. All of these items are available for self-issue at all open trailheads or the Mt Shasta/McCloud Ranger Stations and The Fifth Season store in downtown Mt Shasta. Have your pass handy as rangers will check.

All trailheads are currently open and one may drive in completely to all of them. Trailheads are stocked with summit passes, permits and human waste packout bags. All are available for self-issue. On the north and east side trailheads, waste pack out bags are inside the bathrooms. These items are required to enter into and climb in the Mount Shasta Wilderness area. 

Several incidents have occurred on the mountain this year resulting in injuries from rockfall, lost climbers, and slip and falls in steep terrain. Most accidents can be prevented with proper planning and preparation. Please avoid these common mistakes:

  • Do not climb into a whiteout. Always carry a map and compass and/or GPS device and route plan ahead of time. Carry extra batteries or a charge stick.
  • Keep your group together. If you split up, have a solid plan and make sure everyone has proper equipment and knows the way.
  • Do not glissade with crampons on. If you choose to glissade, take OFF your crampons and make sure the snow is SOFT.
  • Know how to properly self-arrest with your ice axe. A slip and fall on the upper mountain can be fatal.
  • Wear a helmet and watch out for rockfall. Climbers get hit every year.

We're over the hump of the main climbing season and climber numbers have dropped off considerably. Skiers have mostly hung up the boards for the season, though that hasn't stopped a few from getting turns in on the east side. Certainly there is enough snow for several thousand feet of vertical, but sun cups are growing in size and becoming undesirable obstacles for most. All ridge routes are mostly melted out and involve loose rock scrambling, potentially knocking rocks onto climbers below.  As the summer trails begin to melt out, PLEASE stay on path as best you can in an effort to limit resource degradation. On the south side, the trail is marked to Horse Camp and we are asking all traffic to please take this trail for the remainder of the season. It is almost completely melted out currently. All this said, climbing conditions are still decent considering the time of year. Rockfall will begin to increase as we move into the latter part of the summer. Despite sunny, warm weather and clear skies, don't underestimate a climb of Mount Shasta. "Casual day" syndrome has caused many climbers trouble in the past.

Camp cleanliness and overall mountain sanitation is very important to us and other climbers. When traveling in the wilderness always follow leave no trace principles.  Minimize your impact. Plan ahead and prepare. Travel and camp on durable surfaces. Depose of waste properly. Leave what you find. Always respect wildlife. 

Check the weather and monitor as you climb. The NWS Rec Forecast is a good place to start as well as the NWS Discussion

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