Mount Shasta Avalanche and Climbing Information

Welcome the Mt. Shasta avalanche and climbing information website.

April 11, 2021 @ 6:00 am

The Mount Shasta Avalanche Center has closed its doors for the 2020-2021 winter season. We will resume issuing daily avalanche advisories in the fall of 2021.

The climbing rangers will be updating the 'overall climbing conditions' and 'climbing route' webpages throughout the 2021 climbing season. For an overview of the most common springtime avalanche concerns, please read the full spring avalanche statement below.

Read the Full Forecast

No current avalanche forecast is available

No current avalanche forecast is available

No current avalanche forecast is available

June 11, 2021

Shasta Mountain Ranger Logo

Greetings climbers! Well, everyone has probably got the memo by now...but, none-the-less, a half of normal winter and a lot of wind have left the mountain looking very dry this spring/summer. This year a climb of Mt. Shasta has more risk than usual with plenty of exposed rock and active rockfall. Remember, just like avalanches, rockfall is only possible on steeper slopes. For most routes, watch for rockfall between 10,000 and 12,000 feet or in any area where exposed rock looms above on steep slopes. On glaciated routes, large patches of hard ice exist, making self-arrest near impossible. We've been seeing clouds shroud the upper mountain lately as well, and perhaps this will be the case this weekend. With weather conditions like this, climbers become lost in the clouds on the upper mountain and not sure which way is down! Always carry navigation tools and know how to use them. These are the main safety concerns at this time. 

Always check the weather before you go. There are many good weather links under our weather tab. Lately, it's been cool and cloudy, with some rain in town and a dusting of snow on the mountain. The Clear Creek route has been slammed and the go-to for most climbers. This route is low angle, does not host any rockfall and does not require ice axe or crampons at this time. The Hotlum/Wintun route condition (Brewer Ck trailhead) is waning. This route is steep enough to host rockfall and an ice axe, crampons, helmet and self-arrest skills are required. The upper portion of the standard route does not have continuous snow anymore. The Hotlum/Bolam route (Northgate trailhead) has been climbed by some and hosts water ice sections. See all our observations below for pictures and more info. Snow will continue to melt and conditions you see now will remain much the same for the future. As for skiing, the Brewer Creek trailhead and Hotlum/Wintun route is the only game in town and not for the faint of heart. Skiing conditions are poor, but turns can still be had for the intrepid. On the south side, day hikes to the Sierra Club cabin, Hidden Valley, Shastina and Helen Lake are still safe and a great outing.

One can drive to all trailheads currently, and each is stocked with everything needed for a climb of Mt. Shasta: Summit Pass, Wilderness Permit, WAG bags (inside bathroom facilities). The wilderness trailhead roads on the north and east sides are in rough shape. An all-wheel drive or 4wd vehicle with modest clearance is recommended. Lastly, a reminder to PLEASE keep a clean camp and pack out your human waste. Climb on!

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