05-10-2016-Avalanche Gulch

Avalanche Gulch is currently in good to great condition for both climbing and skiing/boarding. As of right now, you will be on snow for the entirety of your trip, from Bunny Flat to the summit. The snow conditions are in classic spring form with firm and smooth snow in the morning hours, then corn snow in the afternoon. A few spring storms have deposited trace amounts of new snow here and there, but overall general melt/freeze conditions prevail.  This means that overnight low temperatures will freeze the snow surface, then daytime sun softens the snow into "corn snow" conditions.  Elevation, aspect, and time of day will determine what kind of snow you find.  An avalanche beacon, shovel and probe are still currently advised. While the avalanche danger is overall LOW on most days, late season storms and/or hot days with warm nights causing loose-wet slides presents a hazard that must be evaluated. Just having the right gear doesn't make you safer on the mountain.  The knowledge of how to use it properly, and knowing how to recognize avalanche terrain and associated avalanche problems is essential. Check the spring statement on our avalanche advisory page.

With inclement weather comes increase hazard to mountaineers.  Do not climb into white out conditions. It is quite common for climbers to become disoriented, and wander off of the wrong side of the mountain when above the Red Banks at 12,600 feet.  Ice fall will be another factor to consider as all rock outcroppings at higher elevations are covered in rime ice.  The wind and daytime warming will encourage rime to peel off of rocks and tumble down slope.  Getting hit with a chuck of ice is near the same as getting hit with a rock.  They can break bones, knock you off of your feet, and send you tumbling down slope as well.  If continuous ice fall is encountered, consider turning around and descending.  

MANDATORY: Crampons, ice axe and a helmet and know how to use them!!  An avalanche transceiver, shovel and a probe is also recommended at this time due to the possibility of loose wet snow avalanches or spring storm wind slabs.  You will also need stout winter worthy gear and equipment, and some experience with winter camping skill and survival.  You will be on snow for the entire climb. There is no running water at Lake Helen so bring extra fuel to melt snow.  DO NOT glissade through Red Banks, and take off your crampons when you do decide to glissade. Control your speed!! PLEASE, wear a helmet and limit your exposure to rock and ice fall by moving laterally out of the fall line as you climb.  Always keep an eye above for rock or ice fall, and yell "ROCK!" if you see one to warn other climbers below you. There are a few options currently to navigate through the Red Banks, so the choice is yours. Stay off the Konwakiton Glacier by ascending either through "the notch", or one of the chutes on the climbers right half of the formation to gain the upper portion of the Red Banks. Descend the same way.

CAMPING AT LAKE HELEN: PLEASE keep a clean camp...PACK OUT ALL micro trash, food scraps, coffee grounds, leftover pasta, you name it...please pack it out...Rangers take this VERY SERIOUSLY and so should you!  Thousands of climbers camp here annually and it takes each of us to keep it clean. If you love what the mountains give you, then show them respect by packing out EVERYTHING and LEAVE NO TRACE.  Keep it looking pristine for those that will visit after you, and for the preservation of WILDERNESS!  Secure your tent and belongings well when you leave for the summit. Wind, ravens and the resident pine marten will spread your gear far and wide if it is left out. If your stuff is zipped up and stowed away well within your tent, you shouldn't have a problem. We have not had any issues with critters chewing through tents to get into stored food.  SANITATION: Please urinate on the far EAST side of Lake Helen, AWAY from all camps. Use your pack-out bag over in this area as well. DO NOT urinate in the general camping area!  Snow must be melted for water and we recommend treating it one of three ways: iodine, boil, or filter. Water is NOT running at the spring at Horse Camp, however the toilets are OPEN.  Pack-out bags are mandatory for removing all solid human waste on the mountain.  Pack-out bags are available at Bunny Flat.