06-04-2016-Hotlum/Bolam Ridge

Road access to the North Gate trailhead is now OPEN all the way to the trail head facilities! Summit passes, wilderness permits, and pack-out bags are available, and the toilet is open.  Good conditions will be found on this route: firm snow, very few icy patches, low rock fall. The normal high camp just below 10,000 feet is still mostly snow covered, so expect winter camping conditions. The stream is still currently not accessible due to snow coverage, but we expect it to be exposed any day now. When you can access the snow melt fed stream we recommend treating the water. Standard glacial travel protocol is a must if venturing onto the glaciers. That said, if one stays on the Hot/Bolum ridge route, no crevasses/bergschrunds will be encountered, yet. Some crevasses on the Hotlum glacier may blend into the seasonal snow fields...be careful if you're not familiar with the glacier boundaries. Weak snow bridges are always the issue during spring/early summer as the warm temperatures and sun thin the bridges.  Self arrest skills are a must on this route. If icy patches are encountered they can make for difficult self arrest, even for the seasoned pro. The typical bergschrund climbers left of the route, below the ramp, is starting to become a hazard. It's currently snow covered. Be careful in this area, stay clear of the glacier by sticking well to the climbers right up the lower portion of the route, then traversing left onto the ramp. Be especially careful when descending. Cut back to the left immediately after descending the ramp.