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06-08-2015-West Face

Position: 
Climbing Ranger

General Conditions

The West Face via Hidden Valley is in good shape. The very top portion of the WF gully is melted out, but easily negotiable either over the short melted out section or around it. The trail getting over to Hidden Valley is partial snow/dirt. Try your best to link up sections of the summer trail to aid your route.

Camping in HV can be notoriously windy. Anchor your tent well. Water is not available. Fill up at Horse Camp and bring extra fuel to melt snow.

The route from Horse Camp to Hidden Valley is one long slowly ascending climbers' left traverse. If you ascend too high, you'll just have to descend into HV. If you ascend too low, you will have to climb up near the mouth of the valley. Where most people get into trouble is upon the descent. Climbers have a tendency, especially if skiing, to descend too low too fast. If you do this, you'll end up in either the Sand Flat area or more than likely in Cascade Gulch somewhere. While you'll come out eventually onto the Everitt Memorial Highway, it will add miles to the end of your trip and postpone the delicious brew that may be waiting for you. 

The West Face Route tops out near the bottom of Misery Hill, commonly referred to as the "Upper Mountain." During white out conditions it can be very difficult to find the descent route to the top of the West Face. This has caused numerous search and rescue incidents. It's very easy to wander off the WRONG side of the mountain. The Whitney Glacier and many other routes all converge near Misery Hill and the Summit Plateau. You may quickly find yourself in glaciated terrain which is not good if you are not prepared. Pay attention, don't climb into a white out, know your route.