06-16-2016-Sargents Ridge

Sargents ridge is rapidly approaching it's end for this climbing season.  The ridge top is mostly exposed rock at this point. This route is a remote option for a spring ascent.  To climb this route the approach is close to four miles from Bunny Flat parking lot just to get to the bottom of the ridge via the still partially snow covered Everitt Memorial Hwy. Most climbers do not choose to climb the ridge in total and most often choose the Green Butte ridge link-up to Sargents Ridge. A climb of Sargents Ridge in total will require at least two to three days to complete the whole climb.  Elevation and time of day will determine the snow conditions.  You will find firm and smooth snow in the morning, then corn snow in the afternoon.  Prior winter camping, winter mountaineering, and winter survival skills are mandatory.  Carry a map and compass and know how to use them.  Check the current avalanche advisory and mountain weather forecast before attempting a climb making sure you have a solid multi-day good weather window. The crux lies in on the upper portion of the ridge just before The Thumb. This "sawtooth" portion of the ridgeline has most folks route finding through rock bands on the west side of the ridge, but a few bold mountaineers might be able to make a traverse on the east side of the ridge through this section. A horrible looking fall down the east side into the Mud Creek canyon will keep you on your toes. As the ridge routes melt out, the climbs becomes a loose, boulder hopping mess and/or force one down onto side slopes, which also are melting out. The old adage of rock hopping, "If it looks loose, it probably is..." holds true. All of the rocks look loose on Mt Shasta and climbing routes are best with snow and/or ice on them! Climbing on loose rock brings about two main issues: a slip and fall with the loose rock or knocking a rock down onto potential climbers below. Neither are good options.