06-17-2015-Avalanche Gulch

John Muir Route (Regular Route) via Bunny Flat Trailhead...  This route continues to stay in good shape for climbing with good snow coverage. YOU NEED: Crampons, Ice axe and a helmet... and know how to use them!! The summer trail is melted out all the way to 50/50 Flat. One can climb or ski up climbers gully where a bit of snow still exists from just above Spring Hill. If you're not skiing, please stick to the trail. If you're skiing, limit time off trail as to not form new user trails please. The snow is firm and supportable above treeline in the morning hours and soft and slushy in the afternoon. Snowshoes are not needed.  Skiing/riding on this route is fair to poor... the rangers have stopped skiing on this side. One must hike approx 2.5 miles before skinning up. You can still ski off the summit, down Misery Hill, through Redbanks and below Lake Helen down the narrow strip of snow in "climbers gully" to just above Spring Hill. Sun cups are in their early stages of forming on the south side at lower and mid elevations.  Above Lake Helen, in the early morning hours the refrozen snow surface will be firm and smooth.  While great for climbing these conditions present "slide for life" potential if one is to slip and fall and is unable to self-arrest. Do not underestimate the seriousness of this. Severe injury or death is possible if you slip and fall and don't self arrest. In the past week, we've had one fatality and one double broken ankle injury due to slips/falls/fail to self arrest in Avalanche Gulch. You are responsible for having the proper knowledge, skills and equipment if you climb Mt Shasta. DO NOT glissade through Redbanks and take off your crampons when you do decide to glissade. PLEASE, wear a helmet and limit your exposure to rock and ice fall by moving laterally out of the fall line as you climb.  Always keep an eye above for rock fall, and yell "ROCK!" if you see one to warn other climbers below you. The best route through Red Banks right now is up and through any of the snow filled gullies/chimneys located just right of the center of the Red Banks. Climbing toward The Thumb and around the far right end of the Red Banks is an early season, and longer variation that exposes one to the partially snow bridged bergschrund at the top of the Konwakiton Glacier.  This route is currently NOT recommended.  The bergschrund has started to gape open along parts of its length. The snow bridged portions will only get weaker and become soft in the afternoon. Don't fall through here... simply take the other route mentioned. Again, DO NOT glissade through the Red Banks...keep your crampons on, down climb through this area, and then assess the glissading conditions below. Before attempting to glissade make sure the snow is SOFT, take off your crampons, and use your mountain axe to control your speed!

Expect winter camping conditions as Helen Lake is entirely snow covered, so bring a shovel!  PLEASE keep a clean camp...PACK OUT ALL micro trash, food scraps, coffee grounds, leftover pasta, you name it...please pack it out...Rangers take this VERY SERIOUSLY and so should you!  Thousands of climbers camp here annually and it takes each of us to keep it clean. If you love what the mountains give you, then show them respect by packing out EVERYTHING and LEAVE NO TRACE.  Keep it looking pristine for those that will visit after you, and for the preservation of WILDERNESS!  Secure your tent and belongings well when you leave for the summit. Wind, ravens and the resident pine marten will spread your gear far and wide if it is left unsecured. If your stuff is zipped up and stowed away well within your tent, you shouldn't have a problem. We have not had any issues with critters chewing through tents to get into stored food.  SANITATION: Please urinate on the far EAST side of Lake Helen, AWAY from all camps. Use your pack-out bag over in this area as well. DO NOT urinate in the general camping area!  Snow must be melted for water and we recommend treating it one of three ways: iodine, boil, or filter.  For all routes on the mountain one must melt snow for water at the high camps, so bring extra fuel. Water is now RUNNING at the spring at Horse Camp! The toilets are now OPEN at Horse Camp!  Pack-out bags are mandatory for removing all solid human waste on the mountain.  Pack-out bags are available at Bunny Flat.