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06-23-2015-Hotlum/Bolam Ridge

Position: 
Climbing Ranger

General Conditions

Good conditions are continuing to be found on this route: smooth, firm snow, very little icy patches, low rockfall. The snow line is near the treeline krumholz area. The normal high camp just below 10,000 feet is partially melted out and there is some dry camping available reported one climber. The stream is also melted out but not flowing, so running water typical of this camp is NOT available and one must melt snow for water at this point. Standard glacial travel protocol is a must if venturing onto the glaciers. That said, if one stays on the Hot/Bol ridge route, no crevasses/bergschrunds will be encountered. Most crevasses on the Hotlum glacier are covered and may blend into the seasonal snow fields...be careful if you're not familiar with the glacier boundaries. Weak snow bridges are always the issue as we move into the warmer days of summer. Self arrest skills are a must on this route. Icy patches can make for difficult self arrest, even for the seasoned pro. 

NOTE: Photos not current.

Photographs