06-28-2015-Hotlum/Bolam Ridge

Good conditions are continuing to be found on this route: smooth, firm snow, very little icy patches, low rockfall. The snow line is near the treeline krumholz area. The normal high camp just below 10,000 feet is partially melted out and there is some dry camping available. The stream is melted out and water was reported to be running today! We recommend treating the water. Standard glacial travel protocol is a must if venturing onto the glaciers. That said, if one stays on the Hot/Bol ridge route, no crevasses/bergschrunds will be encountered. Most crevasses on the Hotlum glacier are covered and may blend into the seasonal snow fields...be careful if you're not familiar with the glacier boundaries. Weak snow bridges are always the issue as we move into the warmer days of summer. Self arrest skills are a must on this route. Icy patches can make for difficult self arrest, even for the seasoned pro. The typical bergshrund climber left of the route, below the ramp, is still snow bridged over. Be careful in this area, stay clear of the glacier by sticking well to the climbers right up the lower portion of the route, then traversing left onto the ramp. Be especially careful when descending. Cut back to the left immediately after descending the ramp.

PHOTOS BELOW: We apologize for the sideways view and are working on fixing that! If you click on the photo, sometimes that will load it correctly.