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07-07-2015-West Face
General Conditions
The West Face via Hidden Valley is approaching poor shape. There are several portions of the route that are melted out. This means a couple scrambles on loose rock, some sections like the top of the West face are steep, and all while knocking rocks down onto potential climbers below. The few main gullies of the West Face still hold some snow, but it's going quickly. The ridgelines of the WF are exposed. The trail getting over to Hidden Valley is melted out. The trail begins on the west side of Horse Camp and is easy to follow to the mouth of Hidden Valley. Talk to the Horse Camp caretaker if you have any questions! We'd say this route would be an "okay" choice for one more week, otherwise pick a different route or come back next year!
Camping in HV can be notoriously windy. Anchor your tent well. Water is not available as of this past weekend. Dry camping is available in HV. Fill up water at Horse Camp and bring extra fuel to melt snow.
The route from Horse Camp to Hidden Valley is one long slowly ascending climbers' left traverse. If you ascend too high, you'll just have to descend into HV. If you ascend too low, you will have to climb up near the mouth of the valley. Where most people get into trouble is upon the descent. Climbers have a tendency, especially if skiing, to descend too low too fast. If you do this, you'll end up in either the Sand Flat area or more than likely in Cascade Gulch somewhere. While you'll come out eventually onto the Everitt Memorial Highway, it will add miles to the end of your trip and postpone the delicious brew that may be waiting for you.
The West Face Route tops out near the bottom of Misery Hill, commonly referred to as the "Upper Mountain." During white out conditions it can be very difficult to find the descent route to the top of the West Face. This has caused numerous search and rescue incidents. It's very easy to wander off the WRONG side of the mountain. The Whitney Glacier and many other routes all converge near Misery Hill and the Summit Plateau. You may quickly find yourself in glaciated terrain which is not good if you are not prepared. Pay attention, don't climb into a white out, know your route.
