07-07-2016-Hotlum/Bolam Ridge

North Gate trailhead is OPEN and summit passes, wilderness permits, and pack-out bags are available.

  Good conditions will be found on this route: snow line is sitting about tree line currently, climb early due to soft snow and post holing happening from about 9am and throughout the day. Low rock fall still on this route. Patches of hard snow and ice along route, crampons and ice axe are absolutely necessary. The normal high camp just below 10,000 feet is still mostly snow covered, so expect winter camping conditions. There is a boot path, however, snow is melting fast and fading the path, some "dry" camp sites may be exposed. The stream is currently accessible and water is available. We recommend treating the water.

For the Hotlum glacier, no big crevasses showing and the glacier itself is quite smoot, there is also water running at the hotlum hilton area. Standard glacial travel protocol is a must if venturing onto the glaciers. That said, if one stays on the Hotlum/Bolum ridge route, no crevasses/bergschrunds will be encountered as of yet.

The bergschrund at the bottom of the "ramp" is still entirely snow covered.  Be careful in this area, stay clear of the glacier by sticking well to the climbers right up the lower portion of the route, then traversing left onto the ramp. Be especially careful when descending. Cut back to the left immediately after descending the ramp. Some crevasses on the Hotlum glacier may blend into the seasonal snow fields...be careful if you're not familiar with the glacier boundaries. Weak snow bridges are always the issue during spring/early summer as the warm temperatures and sun thin the bridges.  Self arrest skills are a must on this route. If icy patches are encountered they can make for difficult self arrest, even for the seasoned pro.