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07-09-2016-Hotlum/Wintun Snowfield

Position: 
Climbing Ranger

General Conditions

Summit passes, wilderness permits and packout bags are available at the trailhead. The current conditions for climbing and skiing on this route are decent. The snow line is about treeline or slightly above. A few areas might require one to take their skis off, but overall one can skin from about 8,500 to 9,000 feet, so not far of a walk. One will encounter small sun cups up higher on the mountain and larger cups down low. Still, about 6k of skiing is possible, even in july! The snow is firm in the early morning but softening quickly. Climb early to avoid any possible post-holing on hot days. As with all the east side routes, sun hits them early and too soft of snow is more of a problem than to firm of snow. However, cooler days or days with an easterly wind, the route can stay firm. Hopefully you can time it right! 

Water is flowing in some areas. Expect to melt snow but you can likely find some small flows. Some patches of hard snow and/or ice are possible and crampons and an ice axe are absolutely necessary. Some post holing has been occuring as early as 9am, so get a good, early start. This route does not see much rockfall, but wear a helmet regardless as it's always possible on Mt Shasta.

Current avalanche danger is overall LOW, but will be most sensitive during the warmest parts of the day for loose wet snow instabilities.  A beacon, shovel and probe are recommended. Even though you may not get fully buried by a loose wet slide, they can certainly sweep you into undesirable terrain and of course, still bury you in a terrain trap.  

This route is pretty straight forward with a couple variations possible near the top. Stay on snow, don't knock rocks down onto climbers below. Icy patches may be found in areas as the seasonal snow pack dwindles. Where most people run into trouble on this route is descending back to their car. It's common to miss your vehicle too far to the south (skiers right). Skiers tend to try and ski as low as possible on the long fingers of snow that extend below tree line...while we don't blame them, this will take one far to the south. When descending, be sure to make a gradual trend skiers left, aligning yourself between Ash Creek Butte and the large lava flow that abruptly drops off at around 9,000 feet. If you put yourself in between these two land forms, you'll nail the descent every time. Again, just remember to trend left at the base of the lava flow at about 9,000 feet, not too far, but by placing yourself in between Ash Creek Butte and the blocky lava flow. This is mostly an issue for skiers and when there is snow down to the trailhead.

 

Photographs

  • Hotlum/Wintun snowfield (just left of center) as of 6-5-2016
  • Hotlum/Wintun photo taken 6-11-16