07-10-2015-Whitney Glacier

Rangers have not been on the Whitney Glacier yet this year. Judging by the conditions of other glaciers, some crevasses are snow bridge over, some are melt out. Any remaining snow bridges are becoming weak, especially during the warmest portions of the day. This route is not often climbed, but simply stunning. The best beta we can give for this route is to stay well away from the climber's right side of the glacier where the east slope of Shastina plunges. Nearly constant rockfall, including huge rock slides, have been witnessed by rangers over the years. Best to stay well away from this slope. Climb the center or left center on the glacier. Approach from the Northgate trailhead, climb up the standard trail and your pick is as good as ours as to when to traverse over that way. Another option is from the Coquette Falls (Bolam) trailhead, not marked, at the edge of the wilderness boundary. Get a map, find the falls and note the road that stops at the wilderness boundary. There is no trail from here but it is the quickest overland route to the glacier.

NOTE: Not all photos below are current. We've included a few from season's past to give you an idea of what the glacier is like. The first two photos from top are current. More to come as we take them! Thanks :)