07-29-2016-Hotlum/Wintun Snowfield

Summit passes, wilderness permits and packout bags are available at the trailhead. The current conditions for climbing are decent. Skiing conditions on this route are not that great however. The snow line is approximately 9,500 to 10,000 feet. Expect very patchy snow that is melting fast until about 10,000 feet where more consistent snow will be found. All this is changing daily with snow melting rapidly due to very warm temps. One will encounter widespread sun cups on this route. Still, about 4-5k vert of skiing is possible if your up for the challenge! The snow is firm in the early morning but softening quickly. Climb early to avoid any possible post-holing on hot days. As with all the east side routes, sun hits them early and too soft of snow is more of a problem than to firm of snow. However, cooler days or days with an easterly wind, the route can stay firmer. Hopefully you can time it right! 

Water is flowing in some areas. Expect to melt snow but you can likely find some small flows. Some patches of hard snow and/or ice are possible and crampons and an ice axe are absolutely necessary. Some post holing has been occuring as early as 9am, so get a good, early start. This route does not see much rockfall, but wear a helmet regardless as it's always possible on Mt Shasta.

Current avalanche danger is overall LOW, but will be most sensitive during the warmest parts of the day for loose wet snow instabilities.  A beacon, shovel and probe are recommended. Even though you may not get fully buried by a loose wet slide, they can certainly sweep you into undesirable terrain and of course, still bury you in a terrain trap. We've had numerous incidents in the past this time of year on this route due to hot temps creating loose wet avalanches. Be aware.  

This route is pretty straight forward with a couple variations possible near the top. Stay on snow and don't knock rocks down onto climbers below. Icy patches may be found in areas as the seasonal snow pack dwindles. Where most people run into trouble on this route is descending back to their car. It's common to miss your vehicle too far to the south (skiers right). Skiers tend to try and ski as low as possible on the long fingers of snow that extend below tree line...while we don't blame them, this will take one to far to the south. When descending, be sure to make a gradual trend skiers left, aligning yourself between Ash Creek Butte and the large lava flow that abruptly drops off at around 9,000 feet. If you put yourself in between these two land forms, you'll nail the descent every time. Again, just remember to trend left at the base of the lava flow at about 9,000 feet, not too far, but by placing yourself in between Ash Creek Butte and the blocky lava flow. This is mostly an issue for skiers and when there is snow down to the trailhead.