08-12-2016-Hotlum/Bolam Ridge

North Gate trailhead is OPEN and summit passes, wilderness permits, and pack-out bags are available. The road is rough. Drive slow and careful and a 2wd vehicle can make it in.

Good conditions will be found on this route and is probably the best route on the mountain currently, as far as conditions go. This route is not for beginners however. The snow line is sitting about 10,000 feet currently. Climb early due to soft snow and post holing happening in the warm afternoon hours and even in the AM hours during hot spells. Rock fall is low still on this route. Patches of hard snow and ice may be found along the route. The upper Bolam chute is completely melted out between the rabbit ears and the shark's tooth. Crampons and ice axe are absolutely necessary. Don't forget your HELMET also! The normal high camp at 9,700 feet is melted out. Some dry camping and also some snow camping is available. The stream is currently accessible and water is available. We recommend treating the water. This past weekend (7/29-7/30) rangers experienced bad bugs, mosquitoes and such. 

For the Hotlum glacier, crevasses are starting to show. Snow bridges will be weak with the hot summer sun. There is also water running at the Hotlum Hilton area. Standard glacial travel protocol is a must if venturing onto the glaciers. That said, if one stays on the Hotlum/Bolum ridge route, no crevasses/bergschrunds will be encountered as of yet. All north side routes are recommended for more experienced climbers.

The bergschrund at the bottom of the "ramp" is starting to show.  Be careful in this area, stay clear of the glacier by sticking well to the climbers right up the lower portion of the route, then traversing left onto the ramp. Be especially careful when descending. Cut back to the left immediately after descending the ramp. Some crevasses on the Hotlum glacier may blend into the seasonal snow fields...be careful if you're not familiar with the glacier boundaries. Weak snow bridges are always the issue during spring/early summer as the warm temperatures and sun thin the bridges.  Self arrest skills are a must on this route. If icy patches are encountered they can make for difficult self arrest, even for the seasoned pro.

Come on into the Mt Shasta Ranger Station for a great visual powerpoint slide show of the route!