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Bolum - Whitney Ridge

Climbing Route(s): Whitney Glacier, Bolam/Whitney Ridge, Bolam Glacier, Hotlum/Bolam Ridge
Trailhead(s): Northgate
Region: 
Mt. Shasta
Date/Time of Observation: 
Monday, June 5, 2023 - 1:15pm
Position: 
Climbing Ranger

General Conditions

Findings from the Bolum/Whitney Ridge on 06.05.2023

Snow is melting out quick! 

From Forest Road 42N97, we began ascending cross-country on dry ground through forest until patchy snow near treeline at 8,600 feet was encountered and became reasonable enough to put on skis and skin. By no means was the snow completely consistent and skis were carried over bare patches of rock many times. After gaining snow strips through Bolum Creek area and a lava flow head wall, a high point of 10,400 feet was reached on the ridge separating the Bolum and Whitney Glaciers. The section of Whitney Glacier below the saddle of Shasta and Shastina displayed chunks of exposed ice, lava flow, sparce snow coverage, crevices, and active rockfall. The upper portion of the glacier was not observed due to lack of visibility. The line between snow quality and quantity sits at 10,000 feet. All snow observed beneath 10,000 feet was dirty, sun cupped, and very soft due to lack of freeze. The opposite was observed above 10,000 feet on the Bolum Glacier where the snow became more plentiful and displayed clean surfaces with no signs of crevices or snow bridges. Ridges, roll overs and high points are common exposed areas. Ribbons and patches of healthy snow can still be connected to ascend the upper mountain. 

Running water from snow melt was available at the flanks of large snow fields near 10,000 feet.  

Photographs

  • Mount Shasta from the north side looking at the Bolum, Hotlum, and Whitney Glacier
  • Inconsistent snow coverage near treeline
  • Looking up at the Bolum Glacier. (Hotlum/Bolum climbers route lookers left)
  • The Whitney Glacier
  • Upper part of the mountain and Bolum Glacier. (Hotlum/Bolum climbers route lookers left)
  • Snow melt
  • Top of Lava flow