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Hotlum Bolam Ridge
General Conditions on Jul 20, 2020
The aftermath of the dry winter on Mount Shasta has lead to early late-season conditions on most routes. This means rockfall, ice patches and hard snow are abundant. The mountain climbing routes are shifting toward poor conditions for most routes. That said, if you still choose to climb, the Hotlum/Bolum route is one of the best options at this point. However, we must point out that this route is not for novice mountaineers. One must have solid ice axe and crampons skills and glacial travel skills as well, especially if off route or attempting the nearby glacier routes.
The standard high camps at 10,000 feet have melted out. The snow line is sitting about 10,000 to 11,000 feet currently. Flowing water is available at camp and along the route in a few spots on warmer days. There are a few large icy spots that have appeared and the bergschrund below the Ramp is open. Use caution on the upper Bolam chute as patches of exposed rocks have melted out below the traverse. Summit passes, wilderness permits and human waste packout bags are available for self-issue at the trailhead. Waste packout bags are located inside the restroom facility.