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Hotlum-Bolam Ridge

Climbing Route(s): Whitney Glacier, Bolam/Whitney Ridge, Bolam Glacier, Hotlum/Bolam Ridge, Hotlum Glacier
Mt. Shasta
Date/Time of Observation: 
Monday, July 11, 2022 - 12:00pm
Climbing Ranger

General Conditions

The Hotlum-Bolam Ridge is still in condition as of 7/11/2022. At the base camp at 10,200 feet, the springs are flowing strong and fresh water is abundant. Though melting quickly, one can continue on snow above the springs before hopping onto the ridge proper at around 11,000 feet. Most climbers are now skipping the low traverse onto the ramp and are choosing to ascend through chunky rock straight up the ridge. Going this way, at around 12,400 feet, one can head left and onto the ramp.  The ramp up to the step at 13,100 feet still has good snow coverage on climber's right-hand-side. There is a mix of snow and rock as one ascends back right towards the Rabbit Ears. Above the Ears, to the summit plateau, there is little snow to be found. Most of the summit pinnacle switchbacks have melted out. 

Any time of year, but especially in the summer heat, use caution on the descent below the step and down the ramp. Rockfall was witnessed on the climber's left-hand-side. A fall in this area would have very high consequences due to the bergschrund that guards the bottom of the ramp. Once back on the ridge, if choosing the higher traverse, watch for rockfall if multiple parties are on the route. 

Make sure to grab a wilderness permit, summit pass, and packout bags from the trailhead! Enjoy this beautiful and remote side of the mountain!


  • Hotlum-Bolam Ridge from camp.
  • Looking down the ramp towards the Hotlum Glacier.
  • Looking up the ramp at the high traverse at 12,400 feet.
  • Looking towards the Rabbit Ears from the top of the step.
  • View from the step at 13,100 feet.
  • View from near the summit. Not much snow left on the summit pinnacle switchbacks.