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North Side Update

Climbing Route(s): Bolam Glacier, Hotlum/Bolam Ridge, Hotlum Glacier
Trailhead(s): Northgate
Mt. Shasta
Date/Time of Observation: 
Sunday, April 18, 2021 - 1:15pm
Climbing Ranger

General Conditions

As of 04.18.2021, one can drive within 2 miles of the Northgate trailhead. After that, you can walk there via the patchy snow-covered road. Continuous snow can be found above the trailhead. It is not stocked with permits/passes/wag bags, so please get them at the ranger station in Mt. Shasta or The Fifth Season shop in Mt. Shasta City. 

Due to our low snowpack, the glacier routes already show large patches of blue ice and exposed crevasses. Firm snow/icy surfaces are typical for the north side, and this year will host some of the slickest conditions. A fall on exposed glacial ice would be very difficult to impossible to self-arrest. Roping up with ice screws as protection is necessary if climbing on any steep exposed glacial ice.  No running water was encountered on our tour up to 9,500 feet. Snow surfaces hosted mixed textured including softening wind packed chalk, small penitentes and melt-freeze corn.  


  • Can drive to here for Northgate trailhead
  • Northgate Trailhead
  • Near treeline, 8,000 feet
  • penitentes at 9,000 feet
  • North side from 10,000 feet