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Northside Access Update

Climbing Route(s): Whitney Glacier, Bolam/Whitney Ridge, Bolam Glacier, Hotlum/Bolam Ridge, Hotlum Glacier
Trailhead(s): Northgate
Mt. Shasta
Date/Time of Observation: 
Thursday, March 4, 2021 - 1:30pm

General Conditions

Scouted out northside access yesterday. One can drive up Military Pass to ~5,800 feet / 5.3 miles from Highway 97. It was 48 degrees F in the afternoon at this location. About 6-8 inches of snow is on the ground, though bare under trees. Snow on the ground begins at ~5,000 feet / 2.8 miles up Military Pass. A 4wd vehicle is necessary after about 3.5 miles up the rough, dirt road.

The Whitney, Bolam and Hotlum glaciers are exposed and raw. Crevasses and bergshrunds are open. Large patches of hard water ice reflect the sunlight. Salt and pepper snow coverage exists below, near and above treeline. Exposed areas of the upper mountain are scoured to rock. It's a bit of a sad sight, but beautiful and raw. Skiing anywhere over on this side of the mountain is only for the adventurous, obsessed and weird. We promise you won't see anyone else. Climbing any of the routes is for experienced climbers only. Self-arrest is near impossible. Mistakes on such terrain are unforgiving. Be prepared and understand the consequences.