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Redbanks - Avalanche Gulch

Climbing Route(s): Avalanche Gulch
Trailhead(s): Bunny Flat
Mt. Shasta
Date/Time of Observation: 
Sunday, May 28, 2023 - 8:15am
Climbing Ranger

General Conditions

Observations from the Redbanks area of Avalanche Gulch on May 28, 2023

Below the Heart, great coverage still exists. Despite the few inches of new snow, a fair bit of old wet-loose avalanche debris still covers much of the climbing route in this area.

Approaching 12,000 feet, rock becomes more visible. The Redbank Chutes still have decent snow coverage, however, most parties are choosing to go up to the Thumb and around. If you choose to go up to the Thumb, you will have to do a fourth class move to get on top of the Redbanks (see photo below). Alternatively, if you choose to go up one of the three chutes, be very careful with the scabby conditions above. The thin conditions make it quite easy to kick a rock onto climbers below you.

Conditions above the Redbanks have become quite thin, compared to the lower mountain. A significant amount of rock is exposed from 12,500 feet through the top of Misery Hill. Caution must be taken when crossing from the Redbanks to the base of Short Hill. Once again, this area is right above other climbers, and kicking a rock down would be very easy.


  • Looking Down to the Heart
  • 12,000 feet
  • Fourth Class Move
  • Chutes
  • Thin Conditions Above The Chutes
  • Short Hill and Misery Hill