07-19-2015-Avalanche Gulch

John Muir Route (Regular Route) via Bunny Flat Trailhead...  This route is in okay shape right now and trending toward poor condition. Outfitter guide services are ceasing trips on this route after this weekend. While you could still climb this route for a week or two more with reasonable safety, if you have the choice, choose another route or come back next year! Rockfall is increasing, sun cups are becoming large, the snow is dirty and post holing due to poor overnight freezing is a reality. YOU NEED: Crampons, Ice axe and a helmet... and know how to use them!! The lower mountain is melted out and the summer trail is exposed just about to Lake Helen. There is no running water at Lake Helen so bring extra fuel to melt snow. There are both dirt and snow camping sites available. If all dirt sites are taken, one must camp on snow. Do not create new sites. Skiing is done for on this side in our opinion, but a few have proved us wrong in years past. The snow is firm and supportable in the morning hours and soft and slushy in the afternoon. Loose wet slides are a possibility during the warmest portion of the day due to high freezing levels/warm temps. You'll notice a recent slide above Lake Helen. Misery Hill is melted out so the post-holing problem of weeks past is no longer an issue. One may encounter post-holing elsewhere. DO NOT glissade through Redbanks and take off your crampons when you do decide to glissade. Control your speed!! PLEASE, wear a helmet and limit your exposure to rock and ice fall by moving laterally out of the fall line as you climb.  Always keep an eye above for rock fall, and yell "ROCK!" if you see one to warn other climbers below you. The best route through Red Banks right now is up and through the LEFT snow filled gully/chimney located just right of the center of the Red Banks. The middle and right chutes are melted out. Climbing toward The Thumb and around the far right end of the Red Banks is an early season route alternative and longer variation that exposes one to the partially snow bridged bergschrund at the top of the Konwakiton Glacier.  This route is currently NOT recommended.  The bergschrund has started to gape open along parts of its length. The snow bridged portions will only get weaker and become soft in the afternoon. Don't fall through here... simply take the other route mentioned. Again, DO NOT glissade through the Red Banks...keep your crampons on, down climb through this area, and then assess the glissading conditions below. Before attempting to glissade make sure the snow is SOFT, take off your crampons, and use your mountain axe to control your speed!

CAMPING AT LAKE HELEN: PLEASE keep a clean camp...PACK OUT ALL micro trash, food scraps, coffee grounds, leftover pasta, you name it...please pack it out...Rangers take this VERY SERIOUSLY and so should you!  Thousands of climbers camp here annually and it takes each of us to keep it clean. If you love what the mountains give you, then show them respect by packing out EVERYTHING and LEAVE NO TRACE.  Keep it looking pristine for those that will visit after you, and for the preservation of WILDERNESS!  Secure your tent and belongings well when you leave for the summit. Wind, ravens and the resident pine marten will spread your gear far and wide if it is left unsecured. If your stuff is zipped up and stowed away well within your tent, you shouldn't have a problem. We have not had any issues with critters chewing through tents to get into stored food.  SANITATION: Please urinate on the far EAST side of Lake Helen, AWAY from all camps. Use your pack-out bag over in this area as well. DO NOT urinate in the general camping area!  Snow must be melted for water and we recommend treating it one of three ways: iodine, boil, or filter. Water is running at the spring at Horse Camp. The toilets are now OPEN at Horse Camp also.  Pack-out bags are mandatory for removing all solid human waste on the mountain.  Pack-out bags are available at Bunny Flat.