07-26-2015-Hotlum/Wintun Snowfield

The current conditions on this route are good for climbing and poor for skiing. The snow is late summer mush in the afternoon with large sun cups. One must walk to approx. 10,000 feet before consistent snow is found. Climb early to avoid post-holing. As with all the east side routes, sun hits them early and the snow will soften quickly. The warm summer days have allowed for a few wet loose point release slides on this route, easily triggerable on steeper terrain during the warm afternoon hours. Two rather large wet loose slides have been triggered by skiers and climbers this season. One swept a glissading climber down the mountain for several hundred yards and he suffered injuries. A beacon, shovel and probe are recommended. Even though you may not get fully buried by a loose wet slide, they can certainly sweep you into undesireable terrain and of course, still bury you in a terrain trap.  Rockfall has been low but always be on the look out, espectially 11,000 feet and above. Wear a helmet!

This route is pretty straight forward with a couple variations possible near the top. Stay on snow, don't knock rocks down onto climbers below. Icy patches may be found in areas as the seasonal snowpack dwindles. Where most people run into trouble on this route is descending back to their car. It's common to miss your vehicle too far to the south (skiers right). Skiers tend to try and ski as low as possible on the long fingers of snow that extend below treeline...while we don't blame them, this will take one to far to the south. When descending, be sure to make a gradual trend skiers left, aligning yourself between Ash Creek Butte and the large lava flow that abrubtly drops off at around 9,000 feet. If you put yourself in between these two land forms, you'll nail the descent every time. Again, just remember to trend left at the base of the lava flow at about 9,000 feet, not too far, but by placing yourself in between the two land forms of Ash Creek Butte (pretty obvious butte to the east of the mountain and still has a little snow left on it) and the blocky lava flow. This is mostly an issue for skiers and when their is snow down to the trailhead. Now, one will run into the trail at somepoint and then be able to follow it back to the trailhead.

Water is sometimes found flowing from melting snow fields, but don't count on it. Bring extra fuel to melt snow.