08-02-2015-Hotlum Glacier

The Hotlum Glacier is in good shape right now! Outfitter guides have moved trips over to the North side of the mountain, so you may see some more traffic over there than usual. Even then, it's not even comparable to the high season in Avalanche Gulch! The glacier is in great shape for climbing and/or crevasse rescue training. Some are crevasses are completely exposed, some are not. Be careful where the glacier begins below the Hotlum Headwall. Rocks constantly peel off this prominent rock face. The route up the glacier can take many variations depending on how involved you want to get and/or the location of crevasse features, the ice fall, etc.

You have two options to get around the Hotlum Headwall rock face: right or left. The right route has a few variations but most follow the Hotlum/Bolam Ridge route from The Step to the summit. If you go left around the headwall, most join the Hotlum/Wintun Snowfield route. Yes, some have climbed the rock face as well, but it is a death wish. It's very loose, poorly protected and not worth it! 

Many camp at what we call the Hotlum Hilton. (41N 25 22 x 122W 10 13 - 10,000 feet) Many of the guided groups stay here as well, so perhaps another campsite nearby is better. In that general area, there are a lot of options without camping on top of each other.  Glacial travel and rescue experience required!

Most approach this route from the Brewer Creek trailhead. There is water usually available at the Hotlum Hilton glacial tarn (small pond of water) and there is also occasional melt water found below the Hotlum/Wintun snowfield. Always bring extra fuel to melt snow.