08-20-2015-Avalanche Gulch

This route is in poor shape right now and not recommended. Rangers and public reports of rockfall are numerous. This route conditions description will not be updated much more this season until the snow flies. If you still choose to climb. YOU NEED: Crampons, Ice axe and a helmet and know how to use them!! The lower 3/4 of the mountain is melted out. There is no running water at Lake Helen so bring extra fuel to melt snow. On occaison, pools of meltwater are available. There are both dirt and snow camping sites for a tent. If all dirt sites are taken (unlikely), one must camp on snow. Do not create new sites. The snow (what little is left) is firm and supportable in the morning hours and soft and slushy in the afternoon. Misery Hill is melted out. DO NOT glissade through Redbanks (you can't anyways right now due to lack of snow) and take off your crampons when you do decide to glissade. Control your speed!! PLEASE, wear a helmet and limit your exposure to rock and ice fall by moving laterally out of the fall line as you climb.  Always keep an eye above for rock fall, and yell "ROCK!" if you see one to warn other climbers below you. The best route through Red Banks right now is around the right side through "the notch". Stay off the Konwakiton Glacier by ascending through the notch to gain the upper portion of the Redbanks. Descend the same way.

CAMPING AT LAKE HELEN: PLEASE keep a clean camp...PACK OUT ALL micro trash, food scraps, coffee grounds, leftover pasta, you name it...please pack it out...Rangers take this VERY SERIOUSLY and so should you!  Thousands of climbers camp here annually and it takes each of us to keep it clean. If you love what the mountains give you, then show them respect by packing out EVERYTHING and LEAVE NO TRACE.  Keep it looking pristine for those that will visit after you, and for the preservation of WILDERNESS!  Secure your tent and belongings well when you leave for the summit. Wind, ravens and the resident pine marten will spread your gear far and wide if it is left unsecured. If your stuff is zipped up and stowed away well within your tent, you shouldn't have a problem. We have not had any issues with critters chewing through tents to get into stored food.  SANITATION: Please urinate on the far EAST side of Lake Helen, AWAY from all camps. Use your pack-out bag over in this area as well. DO NOT urinate in the general camping area!  Snow must be melted for water and we recommend treating it one of three ways: iodine, boil, or filter. Water is running at the spring at Horse Camp. The toilets are OPEN at Horse Camp also.  Pack-out bags are mandatory for removing all solid human waste on the mountain.  Pack-out bags are available at Bunny Flat.