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05-06-2016-Hotlum Glacier
General Conditions
Road access to the Brewer Cr. TH is currently limited due to snow covered roads. As of 4/18/2016 you could only make it 4.8 miles past the road junction of the 19 and Pilgrim Cr. Rd. This leaves almost 12 road miles to the trail head facilities. Despite lack of current observations, we are sure you can now get a little bit closer to the trail head. You should still count on at least 8-10 miles of mostly snow covered road before you get to the Brewer Cr. trail head facilities. There are no summit passes or wilderness permits available. Acquire these at either the Mount Shasta or McCloud ranger stations or the Fifth Season in Mount Shasta City. The Hotlum Glacier is in good shape right now! The winter snow pack is insulating the glacial ice from the warming sunshine, and the crevasses are partially snow bridged. As spring progresses into early summer snow bridges will thin, then melt completely. Be careful where the glacier begins below the Hotlum Headwall. Rocks constantly peel off this prominent rock face. The route up the glacier can take many variations depending on how involved you want to get, and/or the location of crevasse features, the condition of the three ice falls, etc.
You have two options to get around the Hotlum Headwall rock face: right or left. The right route has a few variations but most follow the Hotlum/Bolam Ridge route from "The Step" to the summit. If you go left around the headwall, most join the Hotlum/Wintun Snowfield route. Yes, some have climbed the rock face as well, but it is a death wish. It's very loose, poorly protected and not worth it!
Many camp at what we call the Hotlum Hilton. (41N 25 22 x 122W 10 13 - 10,000 feet) Many of the guided groups stay here as well, so perhaps another campsite nearby is better. In that general area, there are a lot of options without camping on top of each other. Glacial travel and rescue experience required!
Most approach this route from the Brewer Creek trailhead. There is water usually available at the Hotlum Hilton glacial tarn (small pond of water) and there is also occasional melt water found below the Hotlum/Wintun snowfield. Always bring extra fuel to melt snow. Water is available at the Northgate (Hotlum/Bolam) high camp if you choose to approach from that route. Enjoy!