05-30-2016-West Face

The West Face via Hidden Valley (HV) is currently in good to great shape for climbing and skiing/boarding.   Current snow conditions are in typical spring/early summer form with firm snow in the morning hours, softening into "corn" snow by about 11:00 am.  The forecast for the coming week looks a lot like summer with increasing temperatures and mostly sunny skies.  As with all other routes, elevation and time of day will dictate the kind of snow you'll find.  Never climb into "white out" conditions as it is common for climbers to get disoriented and wander off of the wrong side of the mountain from upper elevations.  Turn around if winds and clouds limit visibility, and compromise safety.  This route is a more remote option than Avalanche Gulch via Bunny Flat, and is more of a challenge to access.  With the warm, summer like temperatures in store the snow will melt exposing bare ground on ridge tops.  This may require folks approaching on skies/split boards to boot across bare patches. Snow shoes are currently not necessary due to consolidated snow conditions. Winter worthy gear, winter camping, and winter mountaineering knowledge and skill are a must. An ice axe, crampons and helmet are mandatory, plus the knowledge to use them properly. Some sections like the top of the West Face are steep, and in firm snow conditions present the possibility of a long fall. The ridge lines of the WF are exposed.  The trail that leads to Hidden Valley from Horse Camp is fully snow covered, not marked, and requires a map and compass to reach safely.  

Camping in HV can be notoriously windy. Anchor your tent well. Water is not available. Snow camping is the only option available in HV, currently. Fill up your water jugs before leaving home and bring extra fuel to melt snow. It will be your only source of water when on the mountain.

The route from Horse Camp to Hidden Valley is one long, slow ascending, climbers' left traverse. If you ascend too high, you'll have to descend into HV. If you ascend too low, you will have to climb up near the mouth of the valley. Where most people get into trouble is upon the descent. Climbers have a tendency, especially if skiing, to descend too low, too fast. If you do this, you'll end up in either the Sand Flat area or more than likely, in Cascade Gulch somewhere. While you'll come out eventually onto the Everett Memorial Highway, it will add miles to the end of your trip and postpone the delicious brew that may be waiting for you. Getting off route is most common when the trail is covered in snow.

The West Face Route tops out near the bottom of Misery Hill, commonly referred to as the "Upper Mountain." During white out conditions it can be very difficult to find the descent route to the top of the West Face. This has caused numerous search and rescue incidents. It's very easy to wander off the WRONG side of the mountain. The Whitney Glacier and many other routes all converge near Misery Hill and the Summit Plateau. You may quickly find yourself in glaciered terrain which is not a good situation if you are not prepared. Pay attention, don't climb into a white out, know your route, and turn around before conditions worsen.