05-30-2016-Whitney Glacier

Rangers have not been on the Whitney Glacier yet this year. Judging by the conditions of the other glaciers, most crevasses are partially to mostly snow covered.  Snow bridges covering crevasses will gradually become weak as they thin and melt out.  Snow bridges are their weakest during the warmest portions of the day. This route is not often climbed, but is simply stunning. The best beta we can give for this route is to stay well away from the climber's right side of the glacier where the east slope of Shastina plunges toward the glacier. When this aspect melts out and is all exposed rock, near constant rockfall ensues.  Huge rock slides coming down this aspect have been witnessed by rangers over the years. Best to stay well away from this slope. Climb the center or left center on the glacier. Approach from the Northgate trailhead (as of 4/16/2016 access road blocked by snow 1.3 miles from TH), climb up the standard trail and your pick is as good as ours as to when to traverse over that way. Another option is from the Coquette Falls (Bolam) trailhead, not marked, at the edge of the wilderness boundary. Get a map, find the falls and note the road that stops at the wilderness boundary. There is no trail from here but it is the quickest overland route to the glacier.