07-07-2016-Avalanche Gulch

Avalanche Gulch

is still in good climbing condition for this time of year. Snow coverage at Bunny Flat has entirely melted out up to Horse Camp, the causway is mostly melted out as well as the section above the causway to 50/50 flat (9,500'). PLEASE USE THE SUMMERTIME TRAIL TO HORSE CAMP. Do not cut the trail. If you can remain on the summer time trail up to Lake Helen then great! There are still a few climbers taking the gully however. Lake Helen is mostly snow with a couple dry spots. No water is running at Lake Helen so plan on melting snow, the pee area is off to the east and down slope away from the camping area. Redbanks chutes are still all filled in quite well so any chute is good, decend the same way. The notch and thumb routes are good as well, there is still a lot of snow, so the bergshrund is not showing and travel through there is safe at this time.

Summer is here, which means thunder cells can build up any day. Do not climb into white out conditions, or building thunder cells. It is quite common for climbers to become disoriented, and wander off of the wrong side of the mountain when above the Red Banks at 12,600 feet. Rock fall is another factor currently that should be watched for. The wind and daytime warming will encourage more rock fall. Rocks can break bones, knock you off of your feet, and send you tumbling down slope as well.  The main area of rock fall happens above Lake Helen and below the Heart, but can happen anywhere, at any time day or night, up to the Red Banks.

For skiers you will have to carry gear to at least 9,500' and conditions above 10,000' are pretty poor, this includes sun cupping and debris on route. Warm temperatures will soften snow at the most elevations by about 11-11:30 providing for good glissading conditions, but not always.  Elevation, aspect, and time of day will determine what kind of snow you find. Some days, wind and cooler temps may keep the snow firm, so don't count on glissading and/or soft corn snow up high on select days. While the avalanche danger is overall LOW, the avalanche danger will increase on S-SE-E aspects during the warmest parts of the day for loose wet point release slides.  This type of snow instability may be triggered by skier/riders, climbers, or rock fall.  While not particularly dangerous, enough snow may be entrained to knock one off of their feet and push them into undesirable terrain such as over a cliff, into rocks, or into a terrain trap where enough snow may collect to fully bury a person.  An avalanche beacon, shovel, and probe are still currently advised.  Just having the right gear doesn't make you safer on the mountain.  The knowledge of how to use it properly, and knowing how to recognize avalanche terrain and associated avalanche problems is essential. Check the spring statement on our avalanche advisory page. 

MANDATORY: Crampons, ice axe and a helmet and know how to use them!!  An avalanche transceiver, shovel and a probe is also recommended at this time due to the possibility of loose wet snow avalanches or spring storm wind slabs.  You will also need stout winter worthy gear and equipment, and some experience with winter camping skill and survival.  You will be on snow for the entire climb. There is no running water at Lake Helen so bring extra fuel to melt snow.  DO NOT glissade through Red Banks, and take off your crampons when you do decide to glissade. Control your speed!! PLEASE, wear a helmet and limit your exposure to rock and ice fall by moving laterally out of the fall line as you climb.  Always keep an eye above for rock or ice fall, and yell "ROCK!" if you see one to warn other climbers below you. There are a few options currently to navigate through the Red Banks, so the choice is yours. Stay off the Konwakiton Glacier by ascending either through "the notch", or one of the chutes on the climbers right half of the formation to gain the upper portion of the Red Banks. Descend the same way.

CAMPING AT LAKE HELEN: PLEASE keep a clean camp...PACK OUT ALL micro trash, food scraps, coffee grounds, leftover pasta, you name it...please pack it out...Rangers take this VERY SERIOUSLY and so should you!  Thousands of climbers camp here annually and it takes each of us to keep it clean. If you love what the mountains give you, then show them respect by packing out EVERYTHING and LEAVE NO TRACE.  Keep it looking pristine for those that will visit after you, and for the preservation of WILDERNESS!  Secure your tent and belongings well when you leave for the summit. Wind, ravens and the resident pine marten will spread your gear far and wide if it is left out. If your stuff is zipped up and stowed away well within your tent, you shouldn't have a problem. We have not had any issues with critters chewing through tents to get into stored food.  SANITATION: Please urinate on the far EAST side of Lake Helen, AWAY from all camps. Use your pack-out bag over in this area as well. DO NOT urinate in the general camping area!  Snow must be melted for water and we recommend treating it one of three ways: iodine, boil, or filter. Water is running at the spring at Horse Camp and the toilets are OPEN.  Pack-out bags are mandatory for removing all solid human waste on the mountain.  Pack-out bags are available at Bunny Flat.