09-08-2016-Avalanche Gulch

Avalanche Gulch is in POOR condition and late season conditions in full swing. In short, late season conditions means a lack of snow and a lot of loose rock.The two main hazards for this route currently are 1) rockfall and  2) a slip and fall INTO rocks. This is the time of year when rockfall is at its highest due to snow melting and exposed loose rock. Mt Shasta is one giant pile of (beautiful) rubble! It's simple: snow melts, rockfall increases. This is also the time of year when snow slopes begin to terminate into boulder strewn slopes. Snow slopes with rocks at the bottom drastically increases the consequences of a slip and fall. You MUST know how to self-arrest and you absolutely should wear a helmet, any time of year. Climbing on exposed loose rock is dangerous and not enjoyable for many reasons. You'll be knocking rocks down onto other climbers in steeper sections, loose footing could cause a tumble and you'll be taking one step up and two steps back making for an arduous ascent. Where there is snow, the sun cups are very large which makes for a very slow going climb. The better route now is the Clear Creek route, a broad ridge on the East side of the mountain. While the Clear Creek route is described in books and media as the easiest route on the mountain, it should not be taken lightly. One must stay on route and still have mountain savvy skills. We had a fatality on the CC route earlier this year and also in Avalanche Gulch, late season, off route. Prior proper planning prevents poor performance! Know the route, have the skills, be prepared. If you have your sights set on Avalanche Gulch, we recommend waiting until next spring.

The summer trail/route up to Lake Helen is completely melted out. Please stay on the trail. Once you gain 50/50 flat, the summer trail traverses across to the northeast and gains the stepped moraines up to Lake Helen. The trail tops out at Lake Helen on the EAST side, not the west side, the more typical route when there is snow cover. From Lake Helen, there is NO trail to the summit of Mt Shasta. From Lake Helen and up, some snow will begin to be encountered. 

Lake Helen still currently has some snow but plenty of dry camping is available on the south side of the moraine. No water is running at Lake Helen so plan on melting snow. You can fill up water at the Horse Camp spring also. The pee area is off to the east side of the moraine and down slope away from the camping area. Please use this area for all your bodily functions. It is REQUIRED to packout your human waste on Mt Shasta. Free human waste wag bags are available at all trailheads.

The Redbanks chutes are melted out for the most part. The Thumb route via "the notch" is the best option through the Redbanks currently, if you still choose to climb. You can descend the same way. DO NOT glissade through the chutes. It's steep and easy to get out of control. Be careful of the Konwakiton Glacier bergschrund as it is opening up. While not a bottomless pit, one could certainly fall in at the right spot. Best to just stay off.

Misery Hill is melted out. Ascend Misery via the user trail. Cross the Summit Plateau and ascend the Summit Pinnacle. Be careful on top! You'll be out of breath, tired and may still have your crampons on. It is possible to fall off the top. It happened earlier this year to a climber. Be safe.

In mid to late Summer, thunder cells can build up in the afternoon. Do not climb into white out conditions, or building thunder cells. It is quite common for climbers to become disoriented, and wander off of the wrong side of the mountain when above the Red Banks at 12,600 feet. No matter what mountain of the world, climbing into a whiteout is not good practice.

For skiers, if you really have to, pick another route like the Hotlum/Wintun. The south side routes are, if we may say, horrible for skiing right now. While the avalanche danger is overall LOW, loose-wet avalanche danger may increase on east and southeast aspects during the warmest parts of the day. While pretty rare this time of year, it has happened before on hot days.  This type of snow instability may be triggered by skier/riders, glissading   climbers, or rock fall.  While not particularly dangerous, enough snow may be entrained to knock one off of their feet and push them into undesirable terrain such as over a cliff, into rocks, or into a terrain trap where enough snow may collect to fully bury a person.  An avalanche beacon, shovel, and probe are still currently advised.  Just having the right gear doesn't make you safer on the mountain.  The knowledge of how to use it properly, and knowing how to recognize avalanche terrain and associated avalanche problems is essential. Check the spring statement on our avalanche advisory page. 

MANDATORY: Crampons, ice axe and a helmet and know how to use them!!  You will also need stout winter worthy gear and equipment, and some experience with winter camping skill and survival.  You will be on snow for about half of your climb. There is no running water at Lake Helen so bring extra fuel to melt snow.  DO NOT glissade through Red Banks, and take off your crampons when you do decide to glissade. Control your speed!! PLEASE, wear a helmet and limit your exposure to rock and ice fall by moving laterally out of the fall line as you climb.  Always keep an eye above for rock or ice fall, and yell "ROCK!" if you see one to warn other climbers below you.

CAMPING AT LAKE HELEN: PLEASE keep a clean camp...PACK OUT ALL micro trash, food scraps, coffee grounds, leftover pasta, you name it...please pack it out...Rangers take this VERY SERIOUSLY and so should you!  Thousands of climbers camp here annually and it takes each of us to keep it clean. If you love what the mountains give you, then show them respect by packing out EVERYTHING and LEAVE NO TRACE.  Keep it looking pristine for those that will visit after you, and for the preservation of WILDERNESS!  Secure your tent and belongings well when you leave for the summit. Wind, ravens and the resident pine marten will spread your gear far and wide if it is left out. If your stuff is zipped up and stowed away well within your tent, you shouldn't have a problem. We have not had any issues with critters chewing through tents to get into stored food.  SANITATION: Please urinate on the far EAST side of Lake Helen, AWAY from all camps. Use your pack-out bag over in this area as well. DO NOT urinate in the general camping area!  Snow must be melted for water and we recommend treating it one of three ways: iodine, boil, or filter. Water is running at the spring at Horse Camp and the toilets are OPEN.  Pack-out bags are mandatory for removing all solid human waste on the mountain.  Pack-out bags are available at Bunny Flat.