Mount Shasta climbing season is here! The snow has made the melt/freeze transformation into ideal climbing and corn skiing/riding conditions. We are moving back into an unsettled weather pattern this week. Winds will be moderate coming out of the North-Northwest for the next few days. There will be partly to mostly cloudy skies with a slight chance of precipitation on Wednesday and Thursday, then trending toward a wetter weekend starting Friday. The coming weekend may not host the best weather for summit attempts. Always check the weather before your climb and never climb into a white out as many climbers have become lost in similar conditions. Climbers should expect firm snow in the morning with things beginning to soften up around noon for glissading. This will mean, however, that "slide for life" potential exists and a long tumble is possible if one is unable to self-arrest in the event of a fall. Everyone should have crampons, mountain axe, and a climbing helmet, and know how to use them! The general Spring avalanche statement has been posted on the avalanche advisory page. The winter season avalanche forecasts will resume in December. The potential for avalanche conditions will persist through the Spring, especially with storm activity and new snow accumulations. Avalanche activity will be most likely during and immediately after storms. The avalanche problems during Spring will be new storm snow, wind slabs, wet slabs, and loose wet snow. Ice fall and rock fall are possible, as well. Wear a helmet and keep your eyes up slope as you climb. Check the WEATHER FORECAST before coming up onto Mt Shasta!
Always check the weather before venturing onto Mt Shasta. Definitely keep an eye to the sky as you climb, turning around if clouds begin to build on or near the mountain. PLEASE make sure to be prepared. ALWAYS WEAR A HELMET and KNOW HOW TO USE YOUR ICE AXE & CRAMPONS! The bottom line: BE PREPARED for full mountain conditions at any time.
Wilderness Permits, Summit Passes, and Pack-out Bags are currently available at Bunny Flat and Mt Shasta and McCloud Ranger Stations. The bathrooms are now OPEN at Horse Camp, and the spring water IS RUNNING and available. For all routes on the mountain one must melt snow for water, so bring extra fuel.
We recommend that you DO NOT climb into deteriorating weather as many climbers have become lost, injured or died in poor weather.
ALWAYS check the weather and Avalanche Advisory before you hike or climb. Have a safe and enjoyable climbing season!
At a height of 14,179 ft. Mount Shasta is a high altitude peak, and it is common for climbers to experience acute mountain sickness (AMS) with signs and symptoms of nausea, headache, and lightheadedness. Despite being a common condition, AMS should not be taken lightly. It can quickly develop into the much more serious, and potentially deadly pulmonary or cerebral edema. Stop, take a break, and if symptoms do not improve, descend, descend, descend! SELF RESCUE IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED should one become injured or sick.
Check the NWS weather forecast before climbing and monitor the conditions as you climb
Reminder: DOGS ARE NOT ALLOWED IN THE MT. SHASTA WILDERNESS...THANK YOU
The Climbing Rangers
