The Mount Shasta climbing season is happening now, and the ski season is still lingering! While the most ideal condtions have passed for skiing, shredders are still getting plenty of turns and finding smoothish (is that a word?) snow surface conditions as well as powder still... if one is willing to walk 1-1.5 miles from trailheads. As for climbing conditions, most routes are hosting good snow coverage with low to moderate rockfall potential. Currently, the snow line on the mountain is generally about 7,500 to 8,000 feet. Please begin your climb from all trailheads by sticking to the melted out portions of the trail. Do not wander off trail as this creates unwanted "use" trails and is prohibited in the Mt Shasta Wilderness. All trailheads are open. No dogs allowed in the MS Wilderness please.
The area has seen mixed weather patterns over the past two weeks. Periods of clouds, rain, snow, thunder, lightening and sun have been passing over the mountain bringing some measurable new snow to the upper elevations. Snow levels have been no less that about 9,000 feet. The new snow has provided for some great mid and upper elevation "powder" skiing and smoothed out snow surface conditions. Similar weather patterns are expected to prevail for the week of 5-25-15. While the weather in the greater Mt Shasta area can be decent, it's often we'll get a cloud cap on Mt Shasta itself. Never climb into a white out as many climbers have become lost or died in similar conditions. Many routes from all aspects of Mt Shasta converge on the upper mountain (>12,500 feet). During limited visibility conditions, climbers have descended the wrong side of the mountain... not good. Keep an eye to the sky as you climb, turning around if clouds begin to build on or near the mountain. Check the WEATHER FORECAST before coming up onto Mt Shasta! Late season storms are not uncommon and can host winter like conditions.
Climbers should expect firm and smooth snow in the morning with things beginning to soften up around noon for glissading. This will mean, however, that "slide for life" potential exists and a long tumble is possible if one is unable to self-arrest in the event of a fall. Everyone should have crampons, mountain axe, and a climbing helmet, and know how to use them! Practice self-arrest on small slopes of non-consequence. It could save your limbs and maybe your life!
The general Spring avalanche statement has been posted on the avalanche advisory page. (The winter season avalanche forecasts will resume in December.) The potential for avalanche conditions will persist through the Spring, especially with storm activity and new snow accumulations. Avalanche activity will be most likely during and immediately after storms. Potential avalanche problems during the Spring are new storm snow, wind slabs, wet slabs, and loose wet snow point releases. Check out our 'Avalanche Problem Toolbox' section under 'Education' for details on each avalanche problem. A shovel is definitely suggested for digging out your camp, etc and an avalanche beacon and probe are certainly recommended and in our packs!
Ice fall and rock fall are possible, pretty much year round. While overall rockfall has been low as of late, we are beginning to see an increase in rockfall on the Avalanche Gulch route. It's a simple equation: as snow melts, rockfall increases. If rime ice is seen plastered to exposed rocks above, that will flake off and fall onto climbers at some point, guaranteed. Wear a helmet and keep your eyes up slope as you climb. Pay attention to other climbers: rockfall is often caused from climbers resting in melted out areas and accidentally dislodging rocks onto slopes/climbers below.
At a height of 14,179 ft. Mount Shasta is a high altitude peak, and it is common for climbers to experience acute mountain sickness (AMS) with signs and symptoms of nausea, headache, and lightheadedness. Despite being a common condition, AMS should not be taken lightly. It can quickly develop into the much more serious, and potentially deadly pulmonary or cerebral edema. Stop, take a break, and if symptoms do not improve, descend, descend, descend! SELF RESCUE IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED should one become injured or sick.
The bottom line: BE PREPARED for full mountain conditions at any time. Do your research! ALWAYS WEAR A HELMET and KNOW HOW TO USE YOUR ICE AXE & CRAMPONS! Our goal is to ensure you have a positive wilderness experience and come home in one piece!
YOU WILL NEED THE FOLLOWING MANDATORY ITEMS TO CLIMB MT SHASTA: **Wilderness Permit, Summit Pass, Human Waste Pack-out bags.
Wilderness Permits, Summit Passes, and Pack-out Bags are currently available at all trailheads and the Mt Shasta and McCloud Ranger Stations for self issue. Annual passes are only available at the ranger stations and at The Fifth Season in Mt Shasta. The Mt Shasta Ranger Station is open Monday through Saturday from 8 to 4:30pm. The McCloud station is open 8-4:30, Monday through Friday.
HORSE CAMP: The bathrooms are OPEN at Horse Camp and the spring water is running and available. For all other areas on the mountain one must melt snow for water, so bring extra fuel. The Horse Camp cabin and the surrounding property are owned and managed by the Sierra Club Foundation. The cabin is open year round and all are welcome, however one cannot sleep inside the cabin except in emergencies. Make sure you close the door when you leave. If you plan on camping at Horse Camp, please make sure to pitch your tent on either an existing tent site or on snow. Please DO NOT camp anywhere snow has melted, near tree wells, or where a tent site is not obvious. Lastly, the Sierra Club Foundation manages their property under the Mt Shasta Wilderness rules - that means dogs are not allowed on their property either. Please respect the rules... Thanks!
TIPS! Climb early and descend early. This limits exposure to inclement weather (afternoon buildup of clouds is common), allows plenty of time to descend before dark, and also allows a rescue effort to ensue before dark in the event one gets injured or lost. Avalanche training long with a transeiver, shovel and probe are recommended in winter and spring. Get an alpine start (2-5am) and have a turn around time of 12 to 1pm. Proper equipment, clothing and training are a must. Helmets are recommended always and expect rock and ice fall at all times. Mt Shasta is a 14,000 foot lightening rod and is frequently hit by lightning (usually in summer and fall months), so don't push your luck with building thunderheads. Do not expect to be rescued. Rather, prevent rescues from happening in the first place, and be prepared to handle rescues within your own climbing party should something happen. Natur sets its' own terms and YOU must judge how much risk you are willing to accept. Extra warm gear, like a down jacket, balaclava and extra gloves are a good idea in winter, spring and fall as climbers often develop superficial frost bite during strong winds. Achor your tent well wherever you camp. Tents can a do blow away frequently. Do not plan to camp above treeline if you do not have anchor lines for your tent. The wind chill temperature near the summit in winter and spring can be well below zero.
The best time to climb Mt Shasta is generally from late May to mid July on the south and west sides of the mountain when summer days are longer and the weather is generally stable. However, in dry years, the thin snow pack creates the best climbing conditions in April, May and early June. When the snow melts, you are left with 7,000 feet of scree, talus and boulders. In heavy snow years the climbing season extends to August or September. There is NO trail to the summit. Climbing is much more safe and fun on consolidated snow. The routes on the north and east sides are not recommended for un-guided novices; glacier travel and route finding skills are prerequisites. Spring and summer can bring the chance of thunderstorms. The TEN essentials keep you and your party out of search and rescue statistics by using common sense and carrying the following: map, compass, sunglasses;sunscreen, extra food and water, extra clothing, head lamp/flashlight, first aid kit, matches/lighter, stove, knife/multi-tool and a bivy sack. If you choose to climb: Solo climbing is not recommended. Traveling with an experienced groupd is a good idea, and remember - do not split up the group! Wear a helmet, know how to use your equipment and use common sense and carry the ten essentials. The mountain has extreme weather changes. Be prepared, pay attention!
A note on wind... Mount Shasta stands by itself in the atmosphere. There is nothing anywhere near its' height for over a hundred miles. Because of that, Mt Shasta creates a lot of unique wind conditions. Especially during the winter, spring and early summer, the snow covered mountain provides very little friction for accelerating winds bending around and over this topographic anomaly. Winds over 100 mph at tree line (8,000 ft) are common. It's anyone's guess what the winds at 14,000 feet could be when instruments measure 150 mph winds lower down on the mountain. Winds of 40 mph can knock you off balance. Winds of 60-70 mph can force you to crawl (and cry!). Hurricane strength winds (>74 mph) can make it nearly impossible to stand and destroy well anchored tents. The strongest winds occur with big pressure and temperature gradients in the atmosphere, and tend to occur in front of, and behind, storms. The lowest winds occur when the center of a high pressure is over the Mt Shasta area. Take this seriously as wind has resulted in searches, injuries and fatalities.
Reminder: DOGS ARE NOT ALLOWED IN THE MT. SHASTA WILDERNESS
THANK YOU and see you on the mountain!
The Mt Shasta Climbing Rangers
Nick, Jon, Forrest, Matt
