Climbing season on Mount Shasta is in full swing. Please read all of the information below to learn about current conditions, how to climb Mount Shasta, wilderness and climbing regulations, and mountain safety tips. Climbers should understand rescue is neither automatic nor instant. Even rescues that seem straightforward involve planning, effort and risk.
If traveling above 10,000' you need to purchase a summit pass. These are available at Bunny Flat trailhead and the Mt. Shasta or McCloud ranger stations. Annual summit passes are available to purchase at The Fifth Season gear shop in Mt Shasta City during business hours.
Climber safety and mountain sanitation are two of our top management priorities. Please do your part to keep the mountain clean and pack out all waste. It is REQUIRED to pack out your human waste on Mt. Shasta. Yep, if rangers catch you pooping without a wag bag, a citation can be issued. FREE wag bags are available at all open trailheads. Please help keep Bunny Flat clean. It is one of the busiest places on the Forest. Camping is allowed in the parking lot or just below in the dispersed camping area. It is primitive camping, no water/other services available, except bathrooms. Pack out your trash.
The gate past Bunny Flat is still closed. The gate will open June 30th, tentatively. All wilderness trailheads accessing Mount Shasta, except for Sand Flat and Old Ski Bowl, are OPEN. Check all our recent observations for photos and read the full report for current mountain conditions....
Be Prepared!!
Our goal is to ensure you have a positive wilderness experience and come home in one piece! So,
- BE PREPARED
- DO YOUR RESEARCH
- ALWAYS WEAR A HELMET
- KNOW HOW TO USE YOUR ICE AXE & CRAMPONS.
- CARRY PROPER NAVIGATION TOOLS AND KNOW HOW TO USE THEM
- REMEMBER, YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY.
Accidents and Hazards
Many incidents occur on the mountain every season. The most common accidents include rockfall injuries, lost climbers, and slips and falls in steep terrain. Most accidents can be prevented with proper planning and preparation.
- Do not climb into a whiteout. Always carry a map and compass and/or GPS device and route plan ahead of time.
- Keep your group together. If you split up, have a solid plan and make sure everyone has proper equipment and knows the way.
- Do not glissade with crampons on. If you choose to glissade, take OFF your crampons and make sure the snow is soft.
- Know how to properly self-arrest with your ice axe. A slip and fall on the upper mountain can be fatal.
- Wear a helmet and watch out for rockfall. Climbers get hit every year.
With the right knowledge, skill, equipment, and decision-making, all of these accidents can be easily prevented. Please, wear a helmet, and know how to use your ice axe and crampons any time of the year.
There is always the potential for thunderstorm activity during the summer months to shroud the mountain in clouds, limiting visibility. Climbers becoming disoriented on the upper mountain in whiteout conditions and subsequently descending the wrong route is not uncommon. These kinds of scenarios have resulted in many searches over the years. It should go without saying, but we will say it as a solid reminder: Check the weather before you go and more importantly, monitor the weather as you climb. DO NOT CLIMB INTO A WHITEOUT! Being caught on the mountain in any type of weather can compromise life and limb.
Understand that if something goes wrong or a member of your climbing party gets injured, you need to be prepared to self-rescue. If you have an emergency on the mountain, call 911. Be prepared to provide your location and the nature of the injury.
Many hazards exist in mountain terrain. Some of these include:
- Ice and rockfall
- Altitude
- Extreme weather
- Avalanches
Icefall and rockfall are possible year-round. It's a simple equation: as snow melts, rockfall increases. If rime ice is seen plastered to exposed rocks above, it will eventually flake off and fall onto climbers. Wear a helmet and keep your eyes upslope as you climb. Pay attention to other climbers: rockfall is often caused by climbers resting in melted out areas and accidentally dislodging rocks onto slopes and climbers below. Be careful not to kick rocks down onto others.
At the height of 14,179 feet, Mount Shasta is a high altitude peak. It is common for climbers to experience acute mountain sickness (AMS) with signs and symptoms of nausea, headache, and lightheadedness. Despite being a common condition, AMS should not be taken lightly. It can quickly develop into a much more serious and potentially deadly pulmonary or cerebral edema. Stop and take a break. If symptoms do not improve, your only choice is to descend!
Mt Shasta is a 14, 179-foot volcano with steep slopes, avalanches, glaciers, rockfall, altitude, and extreme weather. Some may feel like Mt Shasta is "safe" due to its proximity to Interstate 5 and its "easy" climbing objective connotation. This is false. One should still expect cold, winter-like conditions at any time of year. Have the appropriate gear AND skill level. Mountaineering is dangerous, and climbers must constantly evaluate the terrain, weather, and many other factors to have a safe trip. One should also not expect immediate rescue. Many factors can prolong rescues. Thus, it is necessary, no matter what mountain of the world, that you be prepared.
Mountain Weather
Check the WEATHER FORECAST before coming up onto Mt. Shasta! Our site's main menu hosts numerous resources on the weather. Researching the mountain weather should be an important part of your trip planning.
Clouds and Precipitation: While you may encounter fair weather at lower elevations, cloud caps can form up high. Never climb into a whiteout, as many climbers have become lost or died in similar conditions. Many routes from all aspects of Mt. Shasta converge on the upper mountain (>12,500 feet). During limited visibility conditions, climbers have descended the wrong side of the mountain. Keep an eye on the sky as you climb, turning around if clouds begin to build on or near the mountain.
Lightning: Mt. Shasta is a 14,000-foot lightning rod and is frequently hit by lightning (usually in summer and fall months), so don't push your luck with building thunderheads.
Wind: Winds can reach over 100 mph at tree line (8,000 ft) and much higher in the alpine region. Winds of 40 mph can knock you off balance. Winds of 60-70 mph can force you to crawl. Hurricane strength winds (>74 mph) can make it nearly impossible to stand and will destroy well-anchored tents. The strongest winds occur with big pressure and temperature gradients in the atmosphere and tend to occur in front of and behind storms. The lowest winds occur when the center of high pressure is over the Mt Shasta area. Take this seriously as the wind has resulted in searches, injuries, and fatalities.
Tips & Notes
Climb early and descend early. This limits exposure to inclement weather (afternoon buildup of clouds is common), allows plenty of time to descend before dark and allows a rescue effort to ensue before dark if one gets injured or lost.
Get an alpine start (2-5 am) and have a turnaround time of 12 to 1 pm. Proper equipment, clothing, and training are a must. Helmets are always recommended and expect rock and ice to fall at all times.
Bring extra warm gear (like a down jacket, balaclava, and extra gloves) in all seasons as climbers often develop superficial frostbite during strong winds. The wind chill temperature near the summit in winter and spring can be well below zero.
Anchor your tent well wherever you camp. Tents can and do blow away frequently. Do not plan to camp above treeline if you do not have anchor lines for your tent.
Solo climbing is not recommended. Traveling with an experienced group is a good idea, and remember - do not split up the group!
The routes on the north and east sides are not recommended for unguided novices; glacier travel and route finding skills are prerequisites.
Mountain Rescue
Do not expect to be rescued. Rather, prevent rescues from happening in the first place, and be prepared to handle rescues within your climbing party should something happen. Nature sets its own terms, and YOU must judge how much risk you are willing to accept.
When to Climb
The BEST time to climb Mt. Shasta is usually from May to mid-July on the south and west sides of the mountain when summer days are longer and the weather is generally stable. However, in dry years, the thin snowpack creates the best climbing conditions in April, May and early June. When the snow melts, you are left with 7,000 feet of scree, talus, and boulders. In heavy snow years, the climbing season extends to August or September. There is NO trail to the summit. Climbing is much safer and more fun on consolidated snow.
A winter climb of Mt. Shasta is possible. Still, it is more difficult and dangerous: extreme weather, short days, avalanches, falling ice and potential post-holing increase the difficulty and danger on all routes. If you choose to travel in the backcountry during the winter and spring, you need to have the proper equipment and training to stay safe. An avalanche beacon, shovel, and probe and the ability to identify avalanche terrain and snow stability are essential. A climb of Shasta should not be taken lightly.
Every year, many climbers become lost, injured or killed while attempting Mt. Shasta. Many of these accidents could have been prevented with a little bit of pre-planning and training. YOU need to come prepared.
What to Bring
- MANDATORY: wilderness permit, summit pass, human waste pack-out bags. Available for self-issue at all open trailheads.
- THE TEN ESSENTIALS: map and compass, sunglasses and sunscreen, extra food and water, extra clothing, headlamp/flashlight, first aid kit, matches/lighter, stove, knife/multi-tool, bivy sack
- HELMET, ICE-AXE, & CRAMPONS
- AVALANCHE BEACON, AVALANCHE PROBE, SHOVEL
Wilderness permits, summit passes, and pack-out bags are currently available at all trailheads, the Mt. Shasta and McCloud Ranger Stations and The 5th Season in Mount Shasta City. All trailheads are currently open. Annual passes ($30) are only available at The Fifth Season outdoor store in Mt Shasta. The Mt. Shasta and McCloud Ranger Stations are usually open Monday through Friday from 8 to 4:30 PM. Due to COVID-19, the ranger stations are currently CLOSED. Check our climbing regulations for more details.
Using common sense and carrying the TEN essentials keep you and your party out of search and rescue statistics. Wear a helmet, and know how to use your ice axe and crampons. Be prepared and pay attention. The mountain has extreme weather changes.
Winter and Spring months usually see periods of heightened avalanche danger, though this danger could exist in the summer months under the right circumstances. Research the weather and avalanche danger while planning your trip. Have your climbing party bring avalanche beacons, probes, and shovels armed with proficient skills in their use. Know how to identify avalanche terrain and evaluate snowpack stability.
Shasta Alpine Hut
The stone cabin at treeline on the Avalanche Gulch climbing route is open year-round and all are welcome. However, one cannot sleep inside the cabin, except in emergencies. The composting toilet is open for the season and drinking water is available at the spring. Caretakers are present five days a week for the climbing/hiking season. If you plan on camping, there are two dozen dispersed sites on the property, a nominal $3/bivy and $5/tent fee is asked. There is a fee deposit tube inside the cabin. This fragile area gets a lot of use. Please practice Leave-No-Trace principles. Lastly, the property owner, the Sierra Club Foundation, manages its property under the Mt. Shasta Wilderness rules – dogs, horses, and other domestic animals are not allowed. No drones. Thanks!
Dogs
DOGS, AND OTHER DOMESTIC ANIMALS, ARE NOT ALLOWED IN THE MT. SHASTA WILDERNESS OR WITHIN THE SIERRA CLUB FOUNDATION PROPERTY BOUNDARIES (Shasta Alpine Hut).
While a winter climb of Mount Shasta is possible, understand that it significantly raises the stakes. Extreme weather, short days, avalanches, falling ice, and potential post-holing increase the difficulty and danger on all routes.
Bring the proper equipment with the knowledge to use it effectively. This includes:
- Avalanche beacon
- Shovel
- Probe
The ability to use these tools in a rescue, and to be able to identify avalanche terrain and snow stability are absolutely necessary.
Also remember to bring standard winter mountaineering equipment:
- Warm winter clothing
- A robust tent
- Proper navigation tools (electronics fail quickly in cold weather)
- An ice axe and crampons.
DO NOT attempt to climb Mount Shasta without proper training, preparation and research. Despite being 15 minutes off the interstate, Mount Shasta is a real mountain with real consequences.
The road to Bunny Flat Trailhead (6,950 feet) is plowed and open in the winter. The gate to the Old Ski Bowl is usually closed for the season after November 1st. There are bathrooms, but NO running water or other facilities. Access to other trailheads is dependent on snow cover. All wilderness trailheads are winterized and closed for the season. You may still access them, but your summit pass, wilderness permit, and human waste pack-out bag must be attained at the ranger station in Mount Shasta or McCloud.
REQUIRED TO CLIMB MT SHASTA: Summit pass ($25 and required above 10,000 feet, even if you don't plan on going to the summit), wilderness permit (free) and human waste pack-out bag. All of these items are available for self-issue at all OPEN trailheads or the Mount Shasta/McCloud Ranger Stations and The Fifth Season store in downtown Mount Shasta. Annual passes are available from The 5th Season, 300 N. Mount Shasta Blvd. Due to COVID-19, the ranger stations are still closed.
6.8.22 - A climbing guide died and five other climbers were injured in four separate climbing incidents on Mount Shasta within a roughly 24 hour period beginning Monday, June 6th. All incidents occurred on the Avalanche Gulch route in between Helen Lake and Redbanks, the steepest section of the route. Our deepest sympathies to all friends, family and others involved.
A late season storm this past weekend doused Mount Shasta with rain, snow, fog and freezing temperatures, creating very icy climbing conditions. Steep slopes of Mt Shasta are no fall zones when conditions are like this. Warming temperatures over the week will soften the icy crust, but continue to be cautious of icy snow surfaces in steep terrain, especially in the morning. Snow surfaces and mountain conditions are very dynamic and can change on an hourly basis. Watch for active rime ice fall on these warm days. More weather is expected this coming weekend. Check the weather forecast, always. Click here for an Avalanche Gulch observation from this week.
This weekend, June 11-12 -- The weather looks inclement, again, for the third weekend in a row. We are not saying don't come, but you need to understand risk in the mountains. Snow showers, rain, wind and poor visibility are possible on Saturday and Sunday. If you plan on coming, be prepared. Mount Shasta, despite being 15 minutes off the interstate, is a big mountain with real hazards. Climbing the mountain is not just "backpacking" and there is no established trail to the top. Route finding and over snow travel in steep terrain is an essential skill for a safe climb. An ice axe, 12-point crampons, helmet and self-arrest skills are mandatory. In some icy areas, even the best self-arrest technique may not work. Micro-spikes are not appropriate for a climb of Mount Shasta.
Many groups might choose to head over to the Clear Creek route. This route is not in late season condition. It is absolutely recommended to bring crampons, ice axe, helmet and solid mountaineering boots, not lightweight hikers, microspikes or otherwise. Expect snow and ice for the upper route and maybe a few snow gully crossings lower down. The summit pinnacle is also exposed and often icy.
Overall, climbing conditions have been good. After an extremely dry winter, April brought several feet of snow to the mountain and we're still riding this out. Climbing routes should be in good shape for another few weeks, but the snow is melting fast. There isn't much snow left below 9,500 feet elevation, especially on the southern aspects.
A SAFETY MESSAGE TO CLIMBERS: An ascent of Avalanche Gulch to the summit of Mount Shasta is not a "hike." This is a mountaineering climb with steep snow, ice, and fall potential, high altitude, rock and ice fall hazard, and potentially winter-like weather. If you do not have prior mountaineering experience, please consider taking a mountaineering course, hiring a guide, and gaining experience on smaller mountains before attempting Mount Shasta. Rescue is not always possible and takes time to organize. Adopt a wilderness ethic of self-sufficiency while in the mountains. Know your abilities. Bring emergency gear and know how to use it. Make a turnaround time and stick to it. Ensure you have enough energy, food, and water left to safely descend the upper mountain. Descents are where most accidents happen. Please read all of the information on the climbing advisory below about climbing Mount Shasta and the risks involved.
A SAFETY MESSAGE TO SKI MOUNTAINEERS: Ski conditions on the upper mountain are variable and for experts only. If attempting to ski above 10,000' on Mount Shasta you must be an expert level skier in all conditions. You must know how to assess snow conditions, avalanche hazard, terrain steepness, consequences of a fall, and most importantly, there are places that you must not fall. There are specific slopes where losing a ski or falling can result in injury or death, especially if snow conditions are firm and icy. This time of year, the snow does not always soften enough for a safe descent, especially if it's cloudy or windy. Be prepared to walk down with your skis if conditions aren't right. Most skiers ascend to the right of the Heart and then descend to the left of the Heart. This means they are "onsighting" the ski descent. That is, they don't have first-hand knowledge of the snow conditions and steepness of the descent because they didn't climb up the slope they're choosing to descend. This necessitates careful evaluation of the weather, steepness, consequences, snow conditions, and an honest evaluation of one's own abilities from the top down before committing to the ski descent. If you lose a ski or slip on the ski descent, what is your plan? Is your ice axe handy without taking off your backpack? Do you know how to securely transition from skis to crampons on a steep slope? Do you know how to downclimb a steep slope? These are the basic considerations you need to make before attempting to ski off of the upper reaches of Mount Shasta. The Trinity Chutes or "Left of Heart" in upper Avalanche Gulch is not the place to learn these skills. You need to have a solid skill set and experience level before attempting to ski Mount Shasta.
CURRENT WEATHER PATTERN: While not expecting any big winter-like storms, sometimes little spurts of precipitation can roll in, or puffs of clouds can linger around the mountain and obscure the upper elevations. High winds are always possible high on Mount Shasta. Plan as best you can with the forecasts, and then keep an eye to the sky while climbing. Conditions can change fast, for better or for worse. Don't get caught on the upper mountain (above Redbanks) in a whiteout. If you do, have a means of navigation. Pay attention to the route as you climb. Good situational awareness is important. It's very easy to descend off the wrong side of the mountain in limited visibility conditions. Our weather tab has several great links for weather, including the rec forecast and discussion.
MOUNTAIN HAZARDS: The rime ice hazard is elevated right now. Lingering chunks of ice remain plastered to rocks higher on the mountain. Be heads up for falling rock and ice. No avalanches resulted from recent storms and the avalanche danger is low. The skiing is decent at higher elevations, but every day one must walk their skis further uphill to find snow. It's up to you to play the aspect, elevation, time of day game...snow conditions all depend on the temps, wind, weather, etc.
WATER: Water is available at the Shasta Alpine Hut (Horse Camp) and the restrooms are open. A caretaker is on duty. One must melt snow for water anywhere else on the mountain. Don't underestimate how much fuel it takes to melt snow for your crew. Bring extra.
CLIMBING AVALANCHE GULCH: One of the main cruxes of the Avalanche Gulch route is from Helen Lake through Redbanks. This is the steepest part of the climb, and where most avalanches, slips/falls and rime ice/rockfall accidents are. The best way through Redbanks is either left of Heart, left of Redbanks, or right of Heart and up through the right side of Redbanks, through the snow gullies. Stay off the Konwakiton glacier, which is far right around Redbanks. This route is not recommended due to the large bergschrund.
Once you gain Redbanks (12,500 feet), you are NOT almost to the top. Expect a couple more hours. Above here, the slip and fall and rock/ice fall hazard is gone, but elevation, wind/weather and visibility present the priority hazards. Use Redbanks as a decision point: How's the weather? Any cloud banks on the horizon? How's the group feeling? Wind? Time of day? We suggest a turn-around time of noon to 1pm. This gives you plenty of time to get down AND, time for rescue personnel to come to aid should something happen. Average time for climbers in decent shape is 2-4 hours from Bunny Flat to Helen Lake, and 4-6 hours from Helen Lake to the Summit. The summit is only half-way. Do not summit late in the day.
The summer trail starts from Bunny Flat, heads to Horse Camp, and then up Olberman's Causeway and the climber gully trail to Helen Lake. The trail is melted out to around 9,500'. Climbers, please use this trail to access Avalanche Gulch.
SUMMARY: Overall, 2021/22 was one of the driest winters on record on Mt Shasta. Avalanche danger has been mostly low since early January. The spring snow storms in April will prolong the climbing season, but for how long? We're not sure. It all depends on weather, but we think May and early June will be good compared to what we were looking at not that long ago. Late June will be questionable and July will be getting thin up there on the south/west sides. For any of the south/west side routes to be relatively safe and enjoyable, they require snow cover. Now is the time. Poor weather? You might be able to delay a few weeks, but not months.
Please read all the information below to educate yourself on general information about what it takes to safely climb Mt Shasta. If you have further questions, don't hesitate to give us a call. We are not always in the office, but will respond as soon as we can: 530-926-9614 or email nicklaus.meyers@usda.gov or ryan.lazzeri@usda.gov.
