Lower Casaval Ridge Climb

With good skiing conditions being a thing of the past, today Sam and I set out to see how climbing conditions were on the lower Casaval Ridge route. We experience excellent climbing conditions with low avalanche danger and no sign of current or previous rock or icefall. Moderate winds with strong gusts and blowing snow were felt above treeline. Snow quality below the Casaval Ridge spine was firm and punchy with various surfaces textures ranging from small sastrugi, wind brick, to ice glaze. We implemented ski and boot crampons from 8,300 feet on. Temperatures remained below freezing with a stout wind chill. Once beneath the spine of rocks, the snow quality became softer allowing for good steps to be kicked and solid boot purchase. Wind scouring has exposed several rocky sections below the ridge on the upper route. 

• Observation Location: Casaval Ridge
• Elevation: 10,500 Feet
• Date: 01.30.2023
• Time: 1200
• Observer: E. Falconer 
• Sky Conditions: Clear
• Current Precipitation: Type - No
• Air Temperature: 25 °F
• Wind Direction: NE
• Wind Speed: Moderate (M), 17-25 mi/hr, small trees sway | Strong (S), 26-38 mi/hr, whole trees in motion